UKC Logbook - Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Contributed by edodai Apr/23 - This public ticklist has been seen 417 times

https://pongoose.com/blogs/climbing-articles/portland-sport-route-gems
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We all have access to the logbooks and guidebooks that allocate routes certain numbers of stars for how good the route is, but sometimes we feel differently and think a one star route is worth three stars, or the other way around. We asked a pool of local climbers that frequent Portland A LOT what their favourite routes are of each grade. These are the ones that popped up the most:

Pulling through the crux bulge on 'Time out of Mind' f5 at The Cuttings lower tier, Portland. © Tom Beaumont — Pulling through the crux bulge on 'Time out of Mind' f5 at The Cuttings lower tier, Portland.
© Tom Beaumont, Mar 2012

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	Hidden	40%	8 Feb, 2023
2nd	ethanr2000	30%	20 Apr
3rd	Hidden	13%	12 May, 2023
4th	lieraza	6%	28 May, 2023
5th	Chris Stevens	5%	20 Apr
6th	edodai	2%	29 Apr, 2023
6th	Bouldering Ben	2%	11 Sep, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Sport

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

unknown climber on Pregnant Pause, Portland

Pulling through the steep rockover that guards the chains.

Pete Oxley climbing Hurricane on a Millpond (7c+) at the Cuttings

John Maskell climbing the superb flowstone of Slings Shot (F5), Blacknor North, Dorset.

Rusty on Superfly Guy with the a sun spotlight!

Seb Miller making the impossible, possible!

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
1	Tombstone	3c **	1386	14m		Godnor
2	Voices in the Bower	3c **	955	18m		The Cuttings
3	Imperfect	3c *	1459	10m		Blacknor South
4	Fallen Slab	3a ***	2795	22m		Blacknor Beach
5	The Bumper Fun Book	4a *	816	?		The Cuttings
6	Jutland	4b **	774	?		Blacknor South
7	Godbeams	4c *	856	?		The Cuttings
8	Quality Family Day	4c **	1650	?		The Cuttings
9	Jam	4c **	1828	11m		The Cuttings
10	Best Destiny	4c **	808	20m		Blacknor Central
11	Do Ixtlan	5b *	1733	10m		Blacknor South
12	Slings Shot	5a ***	3126	22m		Blacknor North
13	Jacob's Ladder	5a **	1327	15m		Godnor
14	Amen Corner	5a **	1519	10m		The Cuttings
15	Time Out of Mind	5c *	1057	15m		The Cuttings
16	Talking Smack	5c *	583	22m		Blacknor North
17	Birthday Girl	5c *	410	19m		Blacknor Central
18	Aperitif	5c **	346	?		The Cuttings
19	Limbo Dancer	6a *	526	?		The New Cuttings
20	Inception	6a *	1237	15m		Neddyfields
21	For Michèle	6a **	335	?		The Cuttings
22	The Price of Silence	6a **	1875	19m		Battleship Back...
23	Monsoon Malabar	6a **	1191	22m		Blacknor Central
24	Shit Happens, Actually	6a **	1499	20m		Blacknor Central
25	Pregnant Pause	6a+ ***	1578	26m		Blacknor Central
26	Consommé	6a+ **	1871	17m		The Cuttings
27	Stalker's Zone	6a+ ***	887	28m		Wallsend South
28	Reptile Smile	6a+ ***	2513	22m		Blacknor North
29	The Lizard of Oz	6a+ **	1123	10m		Blacknor South
30	Very Sleepy River	6b **	1117	22m		Blacknor North
31	Wonderlust	6b **	990	16m		Neddyfields
32	The Wilsonator	6b *	221	13m		Neddyfields
33	Old Buffer	6b *	394	?		The Cuttings
34	Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth	6b **	1402	11m		The Cuttings
35	Walking the King	6b+ ***	208	25m		Coastguard South
36	Adonis Blue	6b+ *	34	8m		White Hole
37	Buoys will be Buoys	6b+ ***	1345	27m		Battleship Back...
38	Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation	6b+ ***	805	28m		Blacknor Central
39	Return to Roissy	6b+ **	529	28m		Blacknor Central
40	Burning Skies	6c ***	529	28m		Blacknor Central
41	The Long Walk	6c **	218	25m		Blacknor Central
42	Babelicious Redhead	6c *	268	26m		Blacknor Central
43	Downtown Julie Brown	6c ***	1306	22m		Blacknor North
44	The Unworthy	6c **	287	11m		The New Cuttings
45	The Cutting Edge	6c+ ***	978	12m		The Cuttings
46	Turned to Stone	6c+ ***	542	23m		Blacknor South
47	Nothing but the Groove	6c+ ***	361	24m		Coastguard North
48	Julie Ocean	6c+ **	503	17m		Neddyfields
49	Jurassic Shift	7a **	542	27m		Battleship Back...
50	Superfly Guy	7a ***	528	22m		Coastguard North
51	Wolfgang Forever	7a **	723	22m		Blacknor North
52	To Wish the Impossible	7a ***	879	20m		Blacknor South
53	Portland Heights	7a ***	412	28m		Blacknor Central
54	Haute Cuisine	7a+ **	587	16m		The Cuttings
55	Live by the Sword	7a+ **	482	18m		The Cuttings
56	Bend Sinister	7a+ **	77	10m		The New Cuttings
57	Kendo Nagasaki	7a+ **	134	20m		Blacknor Far South
58	Cybernetic Orchard	7a+ **	81	28m		Blacknor Central
59	Pump Hitler	7a+ ***	486	26m		Battleship Back...
60	Zinc Oxide Mountain	7b+ ***	433	28m		Battleship Back...
61	Sign of the Vulcan	7b+ ***	139	10m		The Cuttings
62	Wax Museum	7b+ ***	73	18m		Coastguard North
63	Road Rage	7b+ ***	333	20m		Cheyne Cliff
64	Running It In	7c **	102	23m		Coastguard North
65	Saskatchewan Uranium Miner	7c ***	26	28m		Wallsend South
66	Tennessee	7c ***	57	25m		Coastguard South
67	Hall of Mirrors	7c ***	342	18m		The Cuttings
68	Crucifix Kiss	7c **	40	17m		Blacknor Central
69	Illusions	7c+ ***	84	20m		Cheyne Cliff
70	King of the Swingers	7c+ ***	2	20m		Cave Hole
71	Monoculture	8a ***	39	19m		Battleship Edge
72	The Mind Terrorist	8a **	24	10m		The Cuttings
73	Hurricane on a Millpond	8a **	28	16m		The Cuttings
74	The Breathing Method	8a ***	83	18m		The Cuttings
75	Fighting Torque	8a ***	166	18m		The Cuttings
76	Freaky Ralph	8a+ ***	53	20m		Blacknor North
		169 stars	57,055	1,318m	76