UKC

The 2 that often get peddled out are Moonraker (HVS 5a) andA Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c). 

I've just done Moonraker this week which is terribly over graded, has more bird poo on it than a battery farm for chickens and has an hour of faff in a cave just to get started. It was however one of the best routes I've done!

As for DOWH, we all know the secret reason its not a VS, its to scare anyone off that might result in a heli rescue. Its the easiest line on the crag other than hauling back up your ab rope. Just looking back at those alpine draws on pitch 3, circling round like a bunting was enough to get us all hot and bothered, oh and the climbing wasn't too bad either.

So what other classic UK HVS sea cliff routes should we be getting on? Pembrokeshire only has good VS climbs I'm told and Scotland..... big place innit??

Ogmore has two very good ones:
Exposure Explosion (HVS 5a)
Pinocchio (HVS 4c)
Some of the other HVS's aren't too bad either - Abbey Road, etc.

Back in '98, me and Denis did Preposterous Tales (E2 5b) which was only graded HVS at that point.....

Seems to be a popular grade for sea cliff traversing given we've had Exposure Explosion (HVS 5a) (overrated in my opinion), Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) and A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c).

So, here's another 2: Facinating Witches (HVS 5a) and Scintillating Stitches (HVS 5a) (best climbed one after the other).

Scavenger (HVS 5a) at Gogarth is excellent and as much as I hate limestone, Assassin (HVS 5a) was also great, although doesn't quite have the sea crashing beneath you for the full experience.

Heart of Darkness has to be up there as a Pembroke option.

Another semi sea cliff HVS in Gower is Isis:
Isis (HVS 5a)

Here's a controversial suggestion:

Missing Link (VS 4b) at St David's Head. Controversial partly because it's not famous but mostly because it only gets VS (but that's a bit of a sandbag - 9 pitches of climbing up to VS in HVS situations). Maybe not the best but definitely an unsung gem that's worth seeking out. Pics and a sure-fire way of finding it here:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/06/15/missing-link-st-davids-head-pem...

Cheers, Dom 

American Beauty (HVS 5a) is very good, particularly if approached from sea level rather than abseil. 

A bit of a cheat but fantastic routes in an intimidating setting.
The Sarclet Pimpernel (E1 5a) and Groove Armada (VS 4c)

Both originally graded hvs which for the pimpernel is probably fair.

It's actually surprisingly difficult to come up with ones from Scotland. Most of the best stuff at Pabbay/Mingulay starts at E1, so you're on to considering single pitch stuff. Maybe things like The Silmaril (HVS 5a) but even that is arguably outclassed by Perfect Groove (VS 4c).

Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c)

The Concrete Chimney (HVS 5a) was even better than DOWH I thought

Spantastic (HVS 4c) at flodigarry is pretty unique in my opinion. Tip toeing up the column without much protection to keep you out of the sea. 4c climbing but felt pretty put there to me 

Might The Arch Deacon (HVS 5a) be a contender? I've not done it but quite a few comments on here along the lines of it making DOWH seem a bit ordinary.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/finale_groove-1... Is excellent.

Prophecy of Drowning (E2 5c)

There was a pigeon roosting in a hole/hold when I did Moonraker - it's it still there? 

FANTAN B (HVS 5a) and  Pigs on the Wing (HVS 5a) are both very memorable HVS's

Pangur Bán (HVS 5a)

Lightning Wall (HVS 5a)

Finale Groove (HVS 4c)

Pity you didn't try Cordelia (HVS 5a) while you were in that neck of the woods

Gave you a like for that

I was thinking of Cornish HVS classics, and then realised all the ones that came to mind were all VS or E1.

It sounds fine provided it's not too birdy!

Just got up and wandered back on to see if we had a bite and wow, our wishlist is now twice the size.. UKC delivers, thanks for the replies.

Saxon at Carn Kenidjack. Great climb, great location.

Some of the best at the grade I’ve enjoyed not yet mentioned:

Sexilegs (HVS 5b) and Midnight Cowboy (HVS 5b) at Baggy, lovely, sustained crack and slab climbing in the  sunshine!

The Pear (HVS 5b), an absolute belter.  Dinorwic technicality by the sea.

Excalibur (HVS 5a) - interesting climbing in an idyllic setting above a crystal clear pool full of seals.

Heart of Darkness and Pigs on the Wing have already been suggested - both excellent.  PotW must be the most adrenaline available anywhere at 5a!

Unless you count Diocese?

True North was a brilliant Cornish HVS, but gone now of course.. 

The Variety Show (HVS 5a) is worth doing too.  You also get to scare yourself by looking at the jump across to the routes in the Great Zawn proper before you start.

T.

Too late!

Concrete Chimney is my favourite. 

It's a long way off but Perihelion on Jersey is quite superb, sadly only a single pich (130 feet) but what a pitch.

Definately thought this was the best of the four Wen Zawn HVS classics. Climbing through the overhangs above the Dream traverse is even more impressive than going along it!

I tried to resist...

The Old Man of Hoy! 

I know it's E1 but the crux is short with overhead protection and the belays are good apparently. 

Have they fallen down?

Britomartis (HVS 4c), it's been well over 40 years since I climbed it, but it stays in my mind as a superb route.

Heart of Darkness (HVS 4c) is Pembroke’s answer to Dream.

Haven’t done it but this looks like a great adventure 

Journey to Ixtlan (HVS 4c)

There are one or two on Mingulay which cover ‘territory’ - again, no personal experience 

Behemoth (HVS 5a) and Jo (HVS 5a)

Couple of strong corner lines at Fair Head but it’s not really a sea cliff.

Fascinating Witches / Scintillating Stitches is great fun (especially as part of the full E2/3 link up but I don’t think they’re HVS. My log for both was “If this is HVS, Right Wall is E3.”

Personally I would put Fascinating Witches as high in the grade but still HVS and Scintillating Stitches as low E1 (worse feet). That's providing you have at least a double set of mid size cams.

No, but just realised it's a Rolf Harris song so I'll say no more.

If we’re talking Swanage then you’re right Lightning Wall a very good shout.

I’d add Behemoth as a possible contender

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/behemoth-14387

Yes, but FANTAN B is memorable in the same way dropping your phone in an unflushed toilet is.

My two contenders: Barad in N Pembroke and Homesick Angel on Jersey. I'd definitely go for the first one though; it's more of a proper sea-cliff.  Land cliffs with a tidal bottom don't count, and that rules out quite a lot of the ones mentioned here.

jcm

I'd back double diamond and immaculate slab at Lundy for scenery and adventure. Also another shout for Saxon at Kendijack.

I suspect most HVS Leaders would get a hell of a shock getting on Barad, it's very safe (albeit a ball ache if the leader falls off), but also very sustained. I was warming up on HVS and leading E1/ E2 reasonably often when I did it and I wound up lying down for a panting session on that final slab just before the belay after the main pitch.

It's also staggeringly good!

Mousetrap at Gogarth.  It was HVS in the Gogarth Guide and Hard Rock when I did it

Another reason I guess that people would find Barad hard is that it’s not HVS, but E1 5b, according to UKC….

I had presumed that it was HVS at some point back in the day. I think it is one of the best E1s which I have led.

Can't see that anyone has mentioned Inner Space (HVS 4c).

Hahaha, I remember dragging some mates and my wife up that. I lot of screaming and a 9pm finish in the dark was quite a day. A meal at the curry house after pacified the group. Great route.

If we're allowing a slight +- in grade then my vote would go to Death Cap at Earnsheugh. E1 5a when I did it, I thought it was nearer HVS than E1, but irrespective of that it gives fantastic climbing in a mad situation.

I agree with you re the Sarclet routes.

No votes for Am Buachaille? Not done it and after watching Robbie Phillips’ video I doubt I will.

By all accounts I've heard, the HVS probably has no redeeming features apart from the fact that it gets you to the top. The E1 on the other hand is excellent climbing, making it by far the best of the classic stacks for me.

Whatever its grade, Barad is a fabulous route that should be much better known.  It was indeed HVS in early Pembroke guides, it was when I did it.  My memory of it is that the crux section felt like a classic VS gritstone jamming crack (say the File) stuck 150 ft directly above the deep sea.  Excellent rough rock and good gear.

Of the other routes mentioned that I've done, Fantan B is a great adventure but really doesn't have a line, Journey to Ixtlan has brilliant positions but the climbing isn't really very memorable (though the quality of the rock is, not in a good way).  As for Cordelia, on Mur Cenhinen, also on St David's Head, from previous exchanges on here only me and Tom V own up to having done it, and I found it harrowing...

Ha ha, yeah I can see it's not for everyone. I just felt it was a proper adventure which was exactly what I was looking for on that day and really enjoyed it. 

Im not sure what the concensus grade is now, but my favourite Swanage HVS always used to be Spook.

Spooks good…might well be E1 now. But Boulder Ruckle has a bit more atmosphere about it. I can remember getting my knee jammed in a crack on the top pitch of Behemoth which makes it stick in the memory a bit…

Moonraker - you should have approached at high tide. Definitely feels like an HVS then!

The Ramp of Pink Emulsion at the range is really good although it's massively over graded at HVS 

I humbly suggest Wiggly Wall (HVS 5a) for us mere mortals. Probably my favourite route from a week on Pabbay operating in the lower grades.

Thunderball, Jo and Behemoth on the Boulder Ruckle! Amazing and intimidating climbs.

Great fun but decent E1 5a in my book. 

High tide or Low tide approach? Doesn't really matter when you have a boat!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMMRgLyh3fY&t=5s

Cheers

Dave

I and a few others found this a bit underwhelming for hvs & 3 stars. It makes a good deep water solo though- S2 due to the f4b high climbing at the end

Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed (HVS 5a) nearby is worth a look too: solid at hvs (the grade not the rock) and quite an adventure

Initially I was a bit underwhelmed but on reflection I think it's an awesome route that gets you into some outrageous positions and I'd love to solo it at some point ☝️

This Pembroke HVS is superb Sunny Corner (HVS 5a). The photos do not do it justice - it's in a difficult spot to photograph! 

It was your vid that inspired out trip. We would have sea kayaked in but we couldnt get a third person to come out and take the boats back. Your channel has been quiet, hope you're coming back soon with something.

Jo is good, that said the first pitch has that damp bird poo cave to start and the crux pitch is just a few moves through the roof that are the meat of it.

Lightning Wall is a good shout. Swanage has a lot to offer if you can deal with the loose rock and earth / grass top outs on some of the climbs.

Swanage, away from Subluminal, always feels much bigger and longer than it actually is ! HVS is a great grade there.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/buzz_light_year... 

if only for the first move but its a great route

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/finale_groove-1...

gives the full ruckle experience at an ameanable grade

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/lightning_wall_...

 for the exposure

and 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/behemoth-14387

which is ever so exciting.

In short you need go no further than swanage for all your HVS needs

And thats just Boulder Ruckle !

True. Quality Street (HVS 4c) is great steep jug hauling 

Another Swanage gem !

Did that a few days ago and we both thought it was a VS at most.  Best route we did on the 2 sectors round there though.

The secret to swanage is that although subliminal is hard in the grade and often quite awkward, once you get to the more committing longer routes with more objective danger than average at the ruckle the grades imo are tending to the soft side for the actual climbing. Admittedly the climbing is intimidating for the grade often being quite outrageously steep on good jugs. The gear is often good too imo.

We did find the grades on Swanage soft, perhaps only a grade or maybe we were just in the zone for the few days we were down there. Loads of gear up to HVS.