Forbes arete
© Tommy Harris, Jul 2011

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif ticklist

contributed by jayjackson Oct/12

The routes from Rebuffat's classic book. Arranged in the same order as in the book (so you should be able to work out your "Rebuffat points").
Numbers in notes below relate to the route numbers in the book.
*Route 2 on the Glacier des Bossons is replaced by the Mer de Glace for ice climbing training since the former has now receded to such an extent.
*Route 12 is an ascent of the Aiguille Croux via the S Ridge and then a continuation to the Punta Innominata via the SE Ridge.
*Route 17 is both Mont Blanc du Tacul by the Ordinary Route followed by an ascent of Cosmiques Arete back to the MIdi Station.
*Route 21 The Midi-Plan traverse suggested by Rebuffat descends from the Plan to the Requin Hut and on to Montenvers. Nowadays this route is more regularly reversed back to the Midi at AD (
31 involves an ascent of the Peigne by the Normal Route, and then continuing to the summit of the Pelerins via the Carmichael Route.
*Route 32 links the traverse or the Grand Charmoz into the traverse of the Aiguille du Grepon.
*Route 33 is both the Traverse of the Rochefort Arete and an ascent of the Ordinary Route on the Dent du Geant.
*Route 34 is an ascent of the Spencer Couloir followed by the traverse of Les Ciseaux to the Aiguille du Fou and a return to the Nantillons Glacier either by descending the Spencer or the Bregeault Ridge.
*Route 46 describes both the Menegaux and Couzy routes.
*Route 49 is an ascent of Mont Blanc from the Tete Rousse Hut via the NW face of the Bionnassay, continuing along it's E ridge to join the Gouter Route and finally descending past Maudit and the Tacul to the Valley Blanche.
*Route 52 is an ascent of the Aiguille du Peigne via the Papillons Ridge and then one of the WNW/Chamonix Face, NW Pillar, NW Face or N Ridge.
*Route 53 combines the SSE Face of Pointe Lachenal by the Contamine Route with the Voie Rebuffat on the Eperon des Cosmiques and the continuation of the Cosmiques Arete to the Midi Station.
*Route 84 is described by Rebuffat as Midi to Grepon.
*Route 92 suffered a complete collapse in 2005.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Clocher-Clochetons TraverseAD 5a ***310?Aiguilles Rouges
Unknown ice climb, Mer de Glace, ChamonixWI-4+ 5825mMer de Glace
Southeast RidgeAD 4c ***856?Aiguilles Rouges
South-southeast Arête (Chapelle de la Gliere)D+ 6a ***531400m• 14Aiguilles Rouges
NE ArêteTD- **24?Aiguilles Rouges
Voie des dallesTD- 5c **92?Aiguilles Rouges
Amone SlabTD+ ***55450mDalle de l'Amone
Sarre RoofA2 340mTetto di Sarre
Petits Charmoz TraverseAD 4c **142?Aiguille de l'M
Northwest RidgePD ***736150mL'Aiguille Verte
Southeast Ridge/East FaceAD 2 **157200mTour Ronde
South RidgeAD- 15?Aiguille Croux
South East RidgePD+ 2?Point de...
Dômes de Miage Traverse (NE to SW)PD **80?Domes des Miages
North RidgePD 14?Le Tour Noir
Arête de la TableAD **210?Aiguille du Tour
South RidgeD+ 5c ***86450mAiguille de Moine
Mont Blanc du Tacul North FacePD *376?Mont Blanc du Tacul
Arete des CosmiquesAD 3 ***2578350mAiguille du Midi
North-Northeast RidgeD 5b **282?Aiguille de l'M
Glacier du MilieuPD+ *172?Aiguille...
East RidgeAD+ 5a ***188246m• 8Mont Blanc du Tacul
Midi-Plan TraverseAD ***474?Aiguille du Plan
South East RidgeAD **2500mDent du Requin
South Face (Pointe Whymper)AD+ 2 *8?Grandes Jorasses
Goûter RoutePD ***576?Mont Blanc
Grutter Ridge (Classic)D- 24?Aiguille des...
Aiguilles Dorées TraverseAD+ ***193,519mAiguilles Dorées
Écandies TraverseD- ***18?Pointe des Écandies
Forbes ArêteAD 3 ***234?Aiguille du...
Northeast FaceAD **40?Les Courtes
Pope RoutePD+ **19?Mont Blanc
Peigne Normal RouteAD+ 4c **136?Aiguille du Peigne
Carmichael RouteD 6250mAiguille des...
Charmoz-Grépon TraverseD+ 6b ***21?Charmoz Grepon
Traverse by North Ridge and South-South-West RidgesD- **8?Charmoz Grepon
The Rochefort RidgeAD 2 ***166?Aiguille de...
Southwest FaceAD+ 4c ***366?Dent du Geant
Spencer CouloirAD+ ***11200m• 3Aiguille de...
Blaitiere-Fou Traverse via Les CiseauxAD+ **2?Envers des Aiguilles
North FaceD 3 ***201350mTour Ronde
Traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-TêteAD **-?Aiguilles de...
LépineyD 5c ***33200m• 8Mont Blanc du Tacul
Les Courtes TraverseAD 2 ***26550mLes Courtes
South RidgeD- *4400mPetites Jorasses
TraverseD ***16?Les Dru
Whymper CouloirAD+ 2 ***48700mL'Aiguille Verte
Voie Ottoz-HurzelerTD **22?• 16Aiguille Croux
Migot SpurD- 3 ***122500mAiguille du...
Renaudie Direct (Central Spur)V ***10570mDent du Requin
North RidgeD 4?Mont Dolent
Voie MenegauxTD+ 6b **59200m• 7Aiguille de l'M
Voie CouzyTD- 5c *92200m• 8Aiguille de l'M
Arête Ryan/East RidgeD+ ***9550mAiguille du Plan
North FaceD 3?Pain de Sucre
North Face Original RouteD ***1?Aiguille du...
East RidgeAD ***10?Aiguille du...
Mont Blanc Traverse, Cosmiques hut to Gouter HutPD ***1124,807mMont Blanc
Kuffner RidgeD 4c ***187700mMont Maudit
East Face DirectVI **19400m• 13Aiguille de Moine
Papillons ArêteD+ 5c ***595?• 12Aiguille du Peigne
North Ridge Aiguille de PeigneTD ***29?Aiguille du Peigne
Contamine RouteTD 6a+ ***172205mMont Blanc du Tacul
Rebuffat-PierreTD- 6a+ ***363120m• 4Aiguille du Midi
Arête du Diable TraverseD+ 5c ***50600mMont Blanc du Tacul
Rébuffat-BaquetTD+ 6a ***456250m• 10Aiguille du Midi
Brenva Spur (Gussfeldt Start)D- 3 ***33800mMont Blanc
South FaceTD ***10180mDent du Geant
Salluard RouteTD- 6a ***59300m• 10Mont Blanc du Tacul
Gervasutti CouloirD- 2 13700mMont Blanc du Tacul
SE SpurTD 6a ***20270mAiguille...
Contamine-VaucherTD 6a **140400m• 14Aiguille du Peigne
Frendo SpurD+ 4 ***3531,200mAiguille du Midi
South East PillarTD+ ***10220m• 7Petit Clocher du...
Roc-Grepon TraverseTD **2?Envers des Aiguilles
Classic North FaceAD+ ***6650mAiguille...
Hirondelles AreteD ***2?Grandes Jorasses
East Face (Rebuffat Route)V+ **-450mAiguille de la...
East RidgeTD- **1?Dent du Crocodile
North Face (Aiguille du Plan)TD 101,000mAiguille du Plan
Cretier RouteTD- **3750mMont Maudit
British Route6b 33350mAiguille de...
Central Spur - Boccalatte PillarD+ **1?Mont Blanc du Tacul
Grandes Jorasses TraverseD 5a ***31?• 2Grandes Jorasses
Grands Montets RidgeD+ ***23?L'Aiguille Verte
Aiguille Noire de PeutéreyTD+ ***291,100m• 42Mont Blanc
Central SpurD ***7?Les Courtes
Arête Sans NomD+ ***2?L'Aiguille Verte
North Face Original RouteTD 2700mDent du Requin
Couturier CouloirD 3 **30900mL'Aiguille Verte
The North FaceTD+ ***52850mLes Dru
Innominata RidgeD+ 3+ ***17?Mont Blanc
Tournier SpurTD+ **5?Les Droites
Ratti-VittaliTD+ 3?Mont Blanc
Traverse of the AiguillesTD 6a ***13?Aiguille du Midi
Contamine RouteTD ***45?Petites Jorasses
Gervasutti PillarTD 6b ***69850mMont Blanc du Tacul
Punnta Gugliermina SW Face GervasuttiTD+ ***3600mMont Blanc
North FaceTD ***10?Aiguille de Triolet
Bonatti-GhigoED1 6c+ ***20470mMont Blanc du Tacul
Route MajorTD- ***5?Mont Blanc
Voie Charlet-PlatonovTD ***4900mL'Aiguille Verte
Bonatti PillarTD ***16?Les Dru
The South Face Of The FouED3 ***4?Envers des Aiguilles
Swiss RouteTD- 4 ***72800mLes Courtes
Peutérey IntegralED1 ***9?Mont Blanc
Croz SpurED1 ***141,000mGrandes Jorasses
Walker SpurED1 6a ***54?Grandes Jorasses
The American DirectED1 ***381,050mLes Dru
Cornau-DavailleED1 21,000mLes Droites
Central Pillar of FreneyED1 5c ***19?Mont Blanc
253 stars13,03435,572m• 273
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