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Scafell Pinnacle
© Simon Caldwell, Jul 2013

Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers ticklist

contributed by C Witter Dec/16

Bill Birkett's list, 'Lakeland's Great Routes', cribbed from his enjoyable history of Lake District climbing, 'Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers: A Hundred Years of Rock Climbing' (London: Robert Hale, 1983).


Birkett picked 11 figures to represent the history of the Lakes:

- W. P. Haskett-Smith
- O. G. Jones
- F. W. Botterill
- S. Herford
- H. M. Kelly
- A. T. Hargreaves
- R. J. Birkett
- W. Peascod
- A. R. Dolphin
- A. Austin
- P. Livesley


What follows is Birkett's selection of the 'most significant and historically important' routes these pioneers put up between 1882 and 1978, plus others he deems to represent 'the very best climbing' they achieved. I've added in a couple too.

Dates are given for some key routes, and refer to the route immediately below. I've not added many, as the dates begin to overlap in the postwar period and become confusing.

p.s. Note that some UKC names are inaccurate, e.g. 'Dry Grasp' should be 'Dry Gasp'.

(ED: In progress - not quite finished yet...)

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 W. P. HASKETT-SMITH (28 AUGUST 1859 – 11 MARCH 1946)
 1882
Great GullyD *30?Pavey Ark
Needle RidgeVD ***1045114m• 5The Napes
 1886
The Wasdale CrackHS 4c ***81517m• 2The Napes
North ClimbS 4a ***87?Pillar
 O. G. JONES (2 NOVEMBER 1867 – 28 AUGUST 1899)
 1896
Jones' Route from Deep GillS 3?Scafell Crag
'C' Gully (Summer)VS -?Wasdale Screes
Central ChimneyS 4a **41?Dow Crag
Kern Knotts West ChimneyVD *2932m• 2Kern Knotts
Kern Knotts CrackHVS 4c **20442m• 2Kern Knotts
Jone's Route Direct from Lord's RakeHS 4b ***182?Scafell Crag
Jones' RouteVD *5?Dow Crag
Walker's GullyMVS 4c ***7?Pillar
 F. W. BOTTERILL (D. 1920)
 1903
Botterill's SlabVS 4c ***50787m• 3Scafell Crag
North-West ClimbVS 4b ***91?Pillar
Crescent ClimbM **425?Pavey Ark
Abbey ButtressS 4a ***10258m• 3The Napes
 S. W. HERFORD (29 JULY 1891 - 1916)
Kern Knotts West ButtressVS 4b ***8633m• 2Kern Knotts
Direct from Lord's Rake to Hopkinson's CairnS 4a ***16?Scafell Crag
The Girdle TraverseMVS 5a **1?Scafell Crag
Wayfarer's CrackMS 212mGreat End
 1914
Central ButtressE1 5b ***423122m• 6Scafell Crag
 H. M. KELLY (20 MAY 1884 - MARCH 1980)
Tophet BastionVD *3966m• 4The Napes
Rib and Slab ClimbHS 4b ***203?Pillar
West Wall ClimbHVD **28?Pillar
SodomVS 4b *1?Pillar
GomorrahVS 4c **17?Pillar
Kern Knotts ButtressHVS 5b *749m• 3Kern Knotts
Central Climb South FaceVS 4b **4337m• 2Kern Knotts
Flake ClimbVS 4c 2?Kern Knotts
Upper Deep Gill ButtressMVS 4b *-?Scafell Crag
Central Route - Deep Gill SlabsHS 4b *4?Scafell Crag
Nook and Wall ClimbS 4c *-?Pillar
The Appian WayHS 4b **41?Pillar
Tophet WallHS 4b ***84575m• 4The Napes
The Tower ButtressHS *-206mScafell Shamrock
 1926
Moss Ghyll GroovesVS 4c ***40779m• 4Scafell Crag
Grooved WallVS 5a **62?Pillar
 A. T. HARGREAVES (1903-1952)
 1930
Deer Bield CrackHVS 5a **27?Deer Bield Crag
Direct RouteVS 4b ***782?Castle Rock of...
Nor'-Nor'-West ClimbVS 4c *13?Pillar
Overhanging WallHVS 5a *4?Scafell East...
 JIM BIRKETT (22 APRIL 1914 - 30 DECEMBER 1993)
 1938
May Day ClimbHVS 5b, 4b 778m• 3Scafell East...
East Buttress GirdleHVS 5a *-210m• 12Scafell East...
 1939
Overhanging BastionHVS 5a ***726?Castle Rock of...
North West AreteVS 4b ***871?Gimmer Crag
'F' RouteVS 4c ***828?Gimmer Crag
Great Central ClimbVS 5a *13?Esk Buttress (Dow...
Hollin GrooveHS 4b *201?White Ghyll
White Ghyll WallVS 4c ***522?White Ghyll
Slip KnotVS 4b ***116244m• 2White Ghyll
Leopard's CrawlHVS 5a ***345?Dow Crag
Haste NotVS 4c ***566?White Ghyll
Slab and Groove RouteHVS 4c **6172m• 2Scafell Crag
Perhaps NotHVS 5a **45?White Ghyll
Do NotE1 5b *2135m• 2White Ghyll
Harlot FaceE1 5b **250?Castle Rock of...
 BILL PEASCOD (1920-1985))
 1940
Eagle FrontVS 4c ***213150m• 8Eagle Crag...
Fifth AvenueVS 4c *5?Eagle Crag...
Dexter WallVS 5a ***242?Grey Crag...
SuaviterS 3c ***159?Grey Crag...
FortiterVS 4b ***102?Grey Crag...
Resurrection RouteVS 4b **47?High Crag
Sinister GroovesVS 4c ***245?Buckstone How
Honister WallHS 4b **211?Buckstone How
Falconer's CrackVS 4c **42?Eagle Crag...
Dale Head PillarMVS 4a *580m• 4Dale Head Crag
CleopatraHVS 5a **187?Buckstone How
JezebelVS 4c **1742m• 2Miners Crag
EveVS 4c ***1486?Shepherd’s Crag
DelilahVS 4c ***228?High Crag
 A. R. DOLPHIN (15 MARCH 1925 - 25TH JULY 1953)
Demon WallVS 5a *776m• 4The Napes
Tophet GirdleVS 4c *1?The Napes
NocturneVS 4b **6?• 3Gimmer Crag
Monkey PuzzleS 4a 1?Deer Bield Crag
Whit's EndVS 4c **57?Gimmer Crag
ProtusHVS 5a ***189?Raven Crag...
DeuterusE1 5b 59?Raven Crag...
Hobson's ChoiceVS 4b *16?Pavey Ark
Medusa WallVS 4c 68?Esk Buttress (Dow...
 1948
Kipling GrooveHVS 5a ***855?Gimmer Crag
Rubicon GrooveE1 5b *1?Bowfell
Deer Bield ButtressE1 5a ***77?Deer Bield Crag
Sword of DamoclesE1 5b **43?North...
Dunmail CracksHVS 5a 6?Deer Bield Crag
PerseusE3 5c *5?Esk Buttress (Dow...
Hell's GrooveE1 5b **58?Scafell East...
Trespasser GrooveE1 5a ***124?Esk Buttress (Dow...
BabylonE1 5b 14?Raven Crag...
Communist ConvertVS 4c **103?Raven Crag,...
 ALAN AUSTIN
Golden SlipperHVS 5a ***751?Pavey Ark
 1960
AstraE2 5c ***276?Pavey Ark
ArcturusE1 5b ***370?Pavey Ark
Gimmer StringE1 5b ***293?Gimmer Crag
Man of StrawE1 5b **29730mWhite Ghyll
Gandalf's Groove DirectE2 5b **99?Neckband Crag
CarnivalE1 5b **26?Eagle Crag...
Chimney VariantE1 5b **87?White Ghyll
Razor CrackE1 5b ***183?Neckband Crag
The Bracken-ClockE2 5c ***229?• 5Pavey Ark
Haste Not DirectE2 5c **48?White Ghyll
 P. LIVESLEY
RaindropE1 5b ***639?• 4Black Crag...
 1974
Footless CrowE6 6c ***31?Goat Crag,...
Bitter OasisE4 5c ***136?Goat Crag,...
Eastern HammerE3 6a ***145?Gimmer Crag
Dry GraspE4 6a ***59?Falcon Crag
Nagasaki GroovesE4 6b ***26?Great End Crag
Bowfell Buttress EliminateE2 5b **13?Bowfell
Lost ColoniesE3 6a ***20?High Crag
Lost HorizonsE4 6b ***37?Scafell East...
Peels of LaughterE5 6b ***9?Raven Crag,...
HiroshimaE4 6b 145mGreat End Crag
Das KapitalE6 6b ***446m• 2Raven Crag,...
73 e, 228 stars20,9021,937m• 181