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Joel on zig zag
© Joel Duncan

Welcome to CUMC ticklist

contributed by Lottie Green Apr/17

Many of us fresh Cardiff Uni Mountaineering Club members are bitten quickly by the outdoor climbing bug and want to get out with the club as much as possible. The CUMC ticklist provides many great climbs at all grades but it can be hard to know where to look for good-quality lower-grade climbs! For that reason, Camilla (@camulv) and I have been working on this list of CUMC beginner classics (with recommendations, naturally) for some easily accessible climbing entertainment.

Stipulations:
- sport up to 6a
- trad lead up to S
- trad second up to HVS (much wider range available on main CUMC ticklist, these are mostly especially popular classics that are aspirational 2nd/3rd year leads and nice to be aware of)
- boulder up to f5

These are all grades accessible by the end of your first year of climbing with CUMC! Within each section, climbs are ordered by grade; within grade, rough distance from Cardiff.
*Note that some are not in the UK but from the fresher-accessible Fontainebleau bouldering trip (Easter) and El Chorro sport climbing trip (Christmas)
**For further Valleys sport, see "South Wales by Train (from Cardiff)" ticklist by training sec 15/16 @Rob McGurk

PLEASE ask if you are at all unsure about a technique - do not endanger yourself or others. This ranges from safely leading, lead-belaying, and abseiling to correctly lowering off or removing your trad leader's gear.

Happy climbing!

User Percentage Latest Log
1 David Maddison 68% 3 Jul
2 myrddinmuse 59% 29 Apr, 2020
3 mikej 46% 24 Dec, 2018
4 BHuthers 43% 23 May
5 GHawksworth 42% 27 Jun
6 Lottie Green 41% 9 Aug, 2020
7 wnicholson 36% 13 Aug
8 Danhan 35% 21 Oct, 2018
9 John1458 31% 1 Sep
10 rosatb 30% 6 Nov, 2018

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

31 users are subscribed to this ticklist, and none have completed the full list.
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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
SPORT
Dissertation Distraction 4a 157 ? Taff's Well
Leopard Prints 4a * 100 15m Foxhole
Jagged Face 4a * 538 ? Bus Stop Quarry
Bulbus Tara 4b * 247 35m • 2 Taff's Well
The Trevena Fish Hotel 4b * 64 ? Rhossili Beach
Fistful of Tenners 4c *** 350 ? Rhossili Beach
Sector Canada Access 4a * 275 28m Frontales
Sorbet de Limón 4c ** 205 22m Escalera Arabe
Er Suzuki 4c * 243 10m Valle de Abdalajis
He Sawed 5a * 68 ? Mountain Ash
Coral Corner 5a * 3 12m Foxhole
Dawson's Corner 5a *** 123 ? Rhossili Beach
Vas Pisando Huevos 5a * 496 19m Frontales
Bano de Tierra 5c ** 185 15m Valle de Abdalajis
Weeping Stump 5b * 81 24m Mountain Ash
Final Relief of the Blue Ball Artist 5b * 23 15m Ton Pentre (Ystrad)
Holds May Spin 5b ** 92 ? Rhossili Beach
Angry Pirate 5c * 228 ? Taff's Well
Kiss the Gunner's Daughter 5c * 216 ? Taff's Well
Butt Out 5c 51 17m The Gap
Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil 5c ** 37 ? Castle Upon Alun...
Rockover Beethoven 5c * 244 ? Navigation Quarry
Mental Mantles 5c * 925 16m Tirpentwys
Squash Match 6a * 132 ? Navigation Quarry
Rocky 6a ** 960 13m Tirpentwys
Groping for Jugs 6a *** 189 12m Bargoed
Lemon Soul 6a *** 307 ? Rhossili Beach
TRAD LEAD
Great Cleft D 191 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
The Ordinary Route D ** 2961 140m • 4 Idwal Slabs (aka...
Spiral Stairs VD *** 1306 84m Dinas Cromlech
Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib) D ** 1287 150m Tryfan
Mucky Gully D ** 1656 ? The Dewerstone
Staircase D ** 1440 18m Sennen
Pine Tree VD ** 215 ? Taff's Well
Snoozin' Suzie VD ** 1912 40m Symonds Yat
Central Rib Route III VD *** 409 ? Wintour's Leap
Bottle Buttress VD 4a ** 559 78m • 4 Wintour's Leap
Pinnacle Crack VD 595 24m Port Eynon
Classic HD * 676 19m Port Eynon
Amble VD 247 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Joggled Wall VD * 632 18m Three Cliffs Bay
Small Beginnings VD * 765 24m Saddle Head
Little Chamonix VD *** 6436 70m • 4 Shepherd’s Crag
The Crack VD ** 842 20m Porthclais Area
Flying Buttress VD *** 2625 87m Dinas Cromlech
Hollybush Crack VD *** 5965 14m Stanage Popular
Heaven Crack VD *** 4857 10m Stanage Popular
Colonel's Arete VD ** 1591 ? • 4 The Dewerstone
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge VD *** 2887 161m • 8 Bosigran Ridge Area
Zig Zag VD ** 1609 15m Haytor
Bowfell Buttress HS 4b *** 936 110m • 4 Bowfell
Grooved Arête HVD 4a *** 3516 230m • 8 Tryfan
Helfenstein's Struggle HVD 4a ** 512 16m Stanage Plantation
Flying Buttress HVD 4a *** 7098 24m Stanage Popular
Central Rib Route I S 4a *** 1601 63m • 4 Wintour's Leap
Vertigo S * 1276 ? Symonds Yat
Gethsemane S 4a ** 699 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Column S 4a * 711 19m Port Eynon
Dulfer S 4a * 751 19m Port Eynon
Initiation Flake S * 786 12m Three Cliffs Bay
Sleepwalk S 4a ** 1258 61m • 4 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Giltar Slab Route S 4a *** 324 45m Penally East
Urchin S 4a * 749 24m Saddle Head
Infra Red S * 570 24m Saddle Head
Black Hawk Hell Crack S 4a *** 5399 14m Stanage Popular
TRAD SECOND
Christmas Curry S 4a *** 3117 75m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Zelda HS 4b *** 1573 55m • 2 Wintour's Leap
Sea Mist HS 4a ** 2136 30m Saddle Head
Christmas Crack HS 4a *** 6569 16m Stanage Popular
Tennis Shoe HS 4b *** 2916 137m • 5 Idwal Slabs (aka...
Whitt VS 4c *** 937 37m • 2 Symonds Yat
Questor VS 4c *** 982 34m Wynd Cliff
Under Milk Wood VS 4a * 268 21m Three Cliffs Bay
Scavenger VS 4c *** 968 26m Three Cliffs Bay
Valkyrie VS 5a 45 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Nemo VS 4c 318 18m Port Eynon
Osiris VS 4c *** 743 36m Fall Bay to Mewslade
Isis HVS 5a *** 458 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
BOULDERING
Fissure Est du Piaf (Blue 21) f3 102 ? L'Elephant
Orange 9 f3 37 3m La Roche aux Sabots
La Plage f5+ 33 ? L'Elephant
Idwal Squeeze V1 *** 148 ? Idwal Cottage Crag
145 stars 95,738 2,374m 127
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
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