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jay on christmas curry
© vinspin, Apr 2010

Welcome to CUMC ticklist

contributed by Lottie Green Apr/17

Many of us fresh Cardiff Uni Mountaineering Club members are bitten quickly by the outdoor climbing bug and want to get out with the club as much as possible. The CUMC ticklist provides many great climbs at all grades but it can be hard to know where to look for good-quality lower-grade climbs! For that reason, Camilla (@camulv) and I have been working on this list of CUMC beginner classics (with recommendations, naturally) for some easily accessible climbing entertainment.

Stipulations:
- sport up to 6a
- trad lead up to S
- trad second up to HVS (much wider range available on main CUMC ticklist, these are mostly especially popular classics that are aspirational 2nd/3rd year leads and nice to be aware of)
- boulder up to f5

These are all grades accessible by the end of your first year of climbing with CUMC! Within each section, climbs are ordered by grade; within grade, rough distance from Cardiff.
*Note that some are not in the UK but from the fresher-accessible Fontainebleau bouldering trip (Easter) and El Chorro sport climbing trip (Christmas)
**For further Valleys sport, see "South Wales by Train (from Cardiff)" ticklist by training sec 15/16 @Rob McGurk

PLEASE ask if you are at all unsure about a technique - do not endanger yourself or others. This ranges from safely leading, lead-belaying, and abseiling to correctly lowering off or removing your trad leader's gear.

Happy climbing!

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 SPORT
Dissertation Distraction4a 121?Taff's Well
Leopard Prints4a *6215mFoxhole
Jagged Face4a *486?Bus Stop Quarry
Bulbus Tara4b *23535m• 2Taff's Well
The Trevena Fish Hotel4b *47?Rhossili Beach
Fistful of Tenners4c ***279?Rhossili Beach
Sector Canada Access4a *27128mFrontales
Sorbet de Limón4c **20322mEscalera Arabe
Er Suzuki4c *24210mValle de Abdalajis
He Sawed5a *66?Mountain Ash
Coral Corner5a *312mFoxhole
Dawson's Corner5a ***103?Rhossili Beach
Vas Pisando Huevos5a *48819mFrontales
Bano de Tierra5c **18315mValle de Abdalajis
Weeping Stump5b *7824mMountain Ash
Final Relief of the Blue Ball Artist5b *1715mTon Pentre (Ystrad)
Holds May Spin5b **74?Rhossili Beach
Angry Pirate5c *192?Taff's Well
Kiss the Gunner's Daughter5c *180?Taff's Well
Butt Out5c 4817mThe Gap
Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil5c **32?Castle Upon Alun...
Rockover Beethoven5c *213?Navigation Quarry
Mental Mantles5c *86416mTirpentwys
Squash Match6a *120?Navigation Quarry
Rocky6a **87013mTirpentwys
Groping for Jugs6a ***15712mBargoed
Lemon Soul6a ***245?Rhossili Beach
 TRAD LEAD
Great CleftD 183?Fall Bay to Mewslade
The Ordinary RouteD **2741140m• 4Idwal Slabs (aka...
Spiral StairsVD ***117384mDinas Cromlech
Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib)D **1169150mTryfan
Mucky GullyD **1526?The Dewerstone
StaircaseD **132618mSennen
Pine TreeVD **205?Taff's Well
Snoozin' SuzieVD **180540mSymonds Yat
Central Rib Route IIIVD ***397?Wintour's Leap
Bottle ButtressVD 3c *53178m• 4Wintour's Leap
Pinnacle CrackVD 57624mPort Eynon
ClassicHD *65019mPort Eynon
AmbleVD 238?Fall Bay to Mewslade
Joggled WallVD *61318mThree Cliffs Bay
Small BeginningsVD *69124mSaddle Head
Little ChamonixVD ***599170m• 4Shepherd’s Crag
The CrackVD **78520mPorthclais Area
Flying ButtressVD ***241687mDinas Cromlech
Hollybush CrackVD ***550314mStanage Popular
Heaven CrackVD ***447110mStanage Popular
Colonel's AreteVD **1443?• 4The Dewerstone
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando RidgeVD ***2672161m• 8Bosigran Ridge Area
Zig-ZagVD **150315mHaytor
Bowfell ButtressHS 4b ***792110m• 4Bowfell
Grooved ArêteHVD 4a ***3188230m• 8Tryfan
Helfenstein's StruggleHVD 4a **46916mStanage Plantation
Flying ButtressHVD 4a ***659324mStanage Popular
Central Rib Route IS 4a **149863m• 4Wintour's Leap
VertigoS *1217?Symonds Yat
GethsemaneS 4a **678?Fall Bay to Mewslade
ColumnS 4a *67919mPort Eynon
DulferS 4a *71519mPort Eynon
Initiation FlakeS *75912mThree Cliffs Bay
SleepwalkS 4a **113361m• 4Avon Gorge (Sea...
Giltar Slab RouteS 4a ***24645mPenally East
UrchinS 4a *68824mSaddle Head
Infra RedS *52224mSaddle Head
Black Hawk Hell CrackS 4a ***496914mStanage Popular
 TRAD SECOND
Christmas CurryS 4a ***294775m• 4Craig Bwlch y Moch...
ZeldaHS 4b ***148855m• 2Wintour's Leap
Sea MistHS 4a **194430mSaddle Head
Christmas CrackHS 4a ***614916mStanage Popular
Tennis ShoeHS 4b ***2670137m• 5Idwal Slabs (aka...
WhittVS 4c ***88237m• 2Symonds Yat
QuestorVS 4b ***91934mWynd Cliff
Under Milk WoodVS 4a *26421mThree Cliffs Bay
ScavengerVS 4c ***94326mThree Cliffs Bay
ValkyrieVS 5a 43?Fall Bay to Mewslade
NemoVS 4c 31318mPort Eynon
OsirisVS 4c ***72436mFall Bay to Mewslade
IsisHVS 5a ***449?Fall Bay to Mewslade
 BOULDERING
Fissure Est du Piaf (Blue 21)f3 102?L'Elephant
Orange 9f3 363mLa Roche aux Sabots
La Plagef5+ 33?L'Elephant
Idwal SqueezeV1 ***140?Idwal Cottage Crag
143 stars88,6792,374m• 127
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