UKC

Contributed by Bloke on a Rope Jan/14 - This public ticklist has been seen 4,113 times

This is all the routes from chapter 9 of Peak Rock. At the start of the 60s John Loy and Alan Clarke continued the tradition of pegging routes at Millstone but they also started to free them with Great Portland St HVS5b and Satan's Slit E15b. Next up are routes from Peter Crew, Martin Boysen, Al Parker and the Alpha Club, during this time the first nuts became available and were sometimes used for aid as well as pro on routes like Orang Outang E25c, The Arete E25c. Also wire brushing became more acceptable on routes like The Brush Off E45c which relies heavily on friction. Allen Austin came on the scene in this time and he can't be mentioned without talking about Western Front E35c and The Wall of Horrors E36a one of the most important leads of the day. In the mid 6os the Black and Tans made their mark with Elegy E25c, Sinn Fein E35c, Usurper E46a and Nectar E46b, again some of these used minimal aid from nuts and slings but it makes for a much better list. Finally right at the end of the 6os Tom Proctor put up Oedipus Ring Your Mother E46b and Green Death E56b, the only E5 on the list.

Paul Murdy showing us how its done on Regent Street E2 5c  © JRae
Paul Murdy showing us how its done on Regent Street E2 5c
© JRae, Feb 2012

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Amber Nectar #1 © Dan Arkle

Nectar
Amber Nectar #1
© Dan Arkle

Paul Murdy showing us how its done on Regent Street E2 5c © JRae

Regent Street
Paul Murdy showing us how its done on Regent Street E2 5c
© JRae

Wall of Horrors © Jon Read

The Wall of Horrors
Wall of Horrors
© Jon Read

Western Front, Almscliff © Alex Messenger

Western Front
Western Front, Almscliff
© Alex Messenger

The stretch for the break on Eliminator © jim jones

Eliminator
The stretch for the break on Eliminator
© jim jones

Ben, finding out Fern Groove's not 'quite' that straight forward. © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Fern Groove
Ben, finding out Fern Groove's not 'quite' that straight forward.
© Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Autumn perfection on Froggatt © Chris Craggs

Chequers Buttress
Autumn perfection on Froggatt
© Chris Craggs

One More Jam.
Western Front, Almscliff © Dan Arkle

Western Front
One More Jam. Western Front, Almscliff
© Dan Arkle

Catching the sun on Bond Street, HVS 5a © Iain Mount

Bond Street
Catching the sun on Bond Street, HVS 5a
© Iain Mount

3-2-none, how the points of contacts go when you faf around © joese7en

L'Horla
3-2-none, how the points of contacts go when you faf around
© joese7en

Dave on "Elegy", Roaches Classic (E2 5c) © PeteWilson

Elegy
Dave on "Elegy", Roaches Classic (E2 5c)
© PeteWilson

Oedipus Ring Your Mother © Will Rupp

Oedipus Ring Your Mother
© Will Rupp


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Bond Street HVS 5a *** 4267 20m Millstone Edge
Lubric HVS 5b * 34 28m Millstone Edge
Crewcut VS 4c ** 464 22m Millstone Edge
Great Portland Street HVS 5b *** 3140 20m Millstone Edge
Satan's Slit HVS 5b * 137 14m Millstone Edge
Regent Street E2 5c *** 1894 22m Millstone Edge
Green Death E5 5c *** 97 18m Millstone Edge
The Blurter HVS 5b *** 938 22m Stanage North
Anniversary Arête E1 5b ** 371 ? Stanage North
Desperation E1 6a *** 1004 12m Stanage Popular
Surprise E1 5c * 61 16m Stanage Plantation
Count's Buttress Direct E3 6a * 26 14m Stanage Plantation
Daydreamer E2 6b *** 122 8m Stanage Plantation
Millsom's Minion E1 5b *** 2429 22m Stanage Plantation
The Tippler E1 5b *** 1528 18m Stanage Popular
Fern Groove E2 5c ** 215 16m Stanage Plantation
Queersville HVS 5a *** 4215 16m Stanage Popular
Eliminator HVS 5b *** 3477 14m Stanage Popular
Yosemite Wall E2 5b ** 943 16m Stanage Popular
Censor E3 5c *** 143 16m Stanage Popular
Calvary E4 6a *** 443 18m Stanage Plantation
Nectar E4 6b *** 57 16m • 2 Stanage North
Blizzard Ridge HVS 5a *** 2262 14m Rivelin Edge
The Brush Off E4 5c *** 457 10m Rivelin Edge
Sinn Fein E3 5c ** 9 22m Tintwistle Knarr
The Arête E2 5c *** 166 22m Tintwistle Knarr
Poteen E1 5b ** 39 20m Tintwistle Knarr
Millwheel Wall E1 5b *** 392 12m Burbage South...
The Boggart E2 6b ** 113 14m Burbage South Edge
Long Tall Sally E1 5b *** 2661 10m Burbage North
Pot Belly E2 5c * 6 14m Kinder Northern...
Brother's Eliminate E1 5b ** 23 18m Kinder Northern...
Little Boy Blue E1 6a * 3 16m Kinder Northern...
Legacy HVS 5a *** 301 20m Kinder Northern...
Mustard Walls E2 5c ** 27 16m Kinder Northern...
Mummy Crack E1 5b * 13 8m Kinder Northern...
Extinguisher Chimney VS 4c *** 23 18m Kinder Downfall
Ocean Wall E1 5b *** 156 16m Standing Stones
Wall and Bulge E2 5b ** 14 10m Wimberry Rocks
Galileo E1 5c ** 250 18m Shining Clough
East Rib HVS 5a *** 490 14m Shining Clough
Pisa Super Direct HVS 5a *** 663 20m Shining Clough
Yerth E2 5c * 44 15m Shining Clough
Naaden E1 5b * 58 12m Shining Clough
The Big Wall E3 6a ** 54 20m Shining Clough
Western Front E3 5c *** 527 13m Almscliff
The Wall of Horrors E3 6a *** 382 18m Almscliff
Left-hand Pillar Crack E1 5b ** 113 10m Gardom's Edge
Vaya Con Dios E2 5c ** 41 20m Gardom's Edge
Undercut Crack E2 5c ** 103 8m Bamford Edge
Moglichkeit VS 4b 176 8m Bamford Edge
Quien Sabe? VS 4c *** 2264 14m Bamford Edge
Chequers Buttress HVS 5a *** 4743 14m Froggatt Edge
Long John's Slab E3 5c ** 1084 14m Froggatt Edge
Oedipus Ring Your Mother E4 6b ** 229 8m Froggatt Edge
Scroach E2 6a ** 148 21m Curbar Edge
Usurper E4 6a *** 167 12m Curbar Edge
L'Horla E1 5b *** 1374 10m Curbar Edge
Encouragement E1 5b *** 257 28m • 2 Hen Cloud
The Long and Short E1 5b * 18 25m • 2 Hen Cloud
Wombat E2 5b *** 447 20m Roaches Upper Tier
Walleroo E2 5c ** 95 20m Roaches Upper Tier
West's Wallaby VS 4c * 389 24m Roaches Upper Tier
Elegy E2 5c *** 682 16m Roaches Lower Tier
The Swan E3 5c *** 179 26m Roaches Lower Tier
Great West Road E3 5b *** 358 34m • 2 Millstone Edge
Orang-outang E2 5c *** 506 12m Stanage North
104 e, 157 stars 48,511 1,102m 71
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