Amber Nectar #1
© Dan Arkle, Apr 2011

Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties ticklist

contributed by Bloke on a Rope Jan/14

This is all the routes from chapter 9 of Peak Rock. At the start of the 60s John Loy and Alan Clarke continued the tradition of pegging routes at Millstone but they also started to free them with Great Portland St HVS5b and Satan's Slit E15b. Next up are routes from Peter Crew, Martin Boysen, Al Parker and the Alpha Club, during this time the first nuts became available and were sometimes used for aid as well as pro on routes like Orang Outang E25c, The Arete E25c. Also wire brushing became more acceptable on routes like The Brush Off E45c which relies heavily on friction. Allen Austin came on the scene in this time and he can't be mentioned without talking about Western Front E35c and The Wall of Horrors E36a one of the most important leads of the day. In the mid 6os the Black and Tans made their mark with Elegy E25c, Sinn Fein E35c, Usurper E46a and Nectar E46b, again some of these used minimal aid from nuts and slings but it makes for a much better list. Finally right at the end of the 6os Tom Proctor put up Oedipus Ring Your Mother E46b and Green Death E56b, the only E5 on the list.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Bond StreetHVS 5a ***256920mMillstone Edge
LubricHVS 5b *2028mMillstone Edge
CrewcutVS 4c **26922mMillstone Edge
Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***204520mMillstone Edge
Satan's SlitHVS 5b *5414mMillstone Edge
Regent StreetE2 5c ***123622mMillstone Edge
Green DeathE5 5c ***5318mMillstone Edge
The BlurterHVS 5b ***60022mStanage North
Anniversary ArĂȘteE1 5b **217?Stanage North
DesperationE1 6a ***72112mStanage Popular
SurpriseE1 5c *3916mStanage Plantation
Count's Buttress DirectE3 6a *1614mStanage Plantation
DaydreamerE2 6b ***918mStanage Plantation
Millsom's MinionE1 5b ***157722mStanage Plantation
The TipplerE1 5b ***102518mStanage Popular
Fern GrooveE2 5c **14616mStanage Plantation
QueersvilleHVS 5a ***276716mStanage Popular
EliminatorHVS 5b ***216714mStanage Popular
Yosemite WallE2 5b **57916mStanage Popular
CensorE3 5c ***10216mStanage Popular
CalvaryE4 6a ***26518mStanage Plantation
NectarE4 6b ***3516m• 2Stanage North
Blizzard RidgeHVS 5a ***152314mRivelin Edge
The Brush OffE4 5c ***31310mRivelin Edge
Sinn FeinE3 5c **522mTintwistle Knarr
The ArĂȘteE2 5c ***9522mTintwistle Knarr
PoteenE1 5b **1820mTintwistle Knarr
Millwheel WallE1 5b ***28512mBurbage South...
BoggartE2 6b **8214mBurbage South Edge
Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***189510mBurbage North
Pot BellyE2 5c *414mKinder Northern...
Brother's EliminateE1 5b **1118mKinder Northern...
Little Boy BlueE1 6a *116mKinder Northern...
LegacyHVS 5a ***18520mKinder Northern...
Mustard WallsE2 5c **1816mKinder Northern...
Mummy CrackE1 5b *68mKinder Northern...
Extinguisher ChimneyVS 4c ***1118mKinder Scout...
Ocean WallE1 5b ***12216mStanding Stones
Wall and BulgeE2 5b **910mWimberry Rocks
GalileoE1 5c **14818mShining Clough Rocks
East RibHVS 5a ***27214mShining Clough Rocks
Pisa Super DirectHVS 5a ***36320mShining Clough Rocks
YerthE2 5c *2514mShining Clough Rocks
NaadenE1 5b *4412mShining Clough Rocks
The Big WallE3 6a **2420mShining Clough Rocks
Western FrontE3 5c ***34413mAlmscliff
The Wall of HorrorsE3 6a ***24118mAlmscliff
Left-hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **7410mGardom's Edge
Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **2920mGardom's Edge
Undercut CrackE2 5c **588mBamford Edge
MoglichkeitHS 4b 1258mBamford Edge
Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***141514mBamford Edge
Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***319414mFroggatt Edge
Long John's SlabE3 5c **71514mFroggatt Edge
Oedipus Ring Your MotherE4 6b **1658mFroggatt Edge
ScroachE2 5c **10021mCurbar Edge
UsurperE4 6a ***10612mCurbar Edge
L'HorlaE1 5b ***89510mCurbar Edge
EncouragementE1 5b ***15628m• 2Hen Cloud
The Long and ShortE1 5b *1225m• 2Hen Cloud
WombatE2 5b ***32620mRoaches Upper Tier
WallerooE2 5c **6220mRoaches Upper Tier
West's WallabyVS 4c *28324mRoaches Upper Tier
ElegyE2 5c ***48116mRoaches Lower Tier
The SwanE3 5c ***13326mRoaches Lower Tier
Great West RoadE3 5b ***26334m• 2Millstone Edge
Orang-outangE2 5c ***31112mStanage North
104 e, 157 stars31,5401,101m• 71