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Desperation solo
© ebdon, 09 Sep 2020

Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties ticklist

contributed by Bloke on a Rope Jan/14

This is all the routes from chapter 9 of Peak Rock. At the start of the 60s John Loy and Alan Clarke continued the tradition of pegging routes at Millstone but they also started to free them with Great Portland St HVS5b and Satan's Slit E15b. Next up are routes from Peter Crew, Martin Boysen, Al Parker and the Alpha Club, during this time the first nuts became available and were sometimes used for aid as well as pro on routes like Orang Outang E25c, The Arete E25c. Also wire brushing became more acceptable on routes like The Brush Off E45c which relies heavily on friction. Allen Austin came on the scene in this time and he can't be mentioned without talking about Western Front E35c and The Wall of Horrors E36a one of the most important leads of the day. In the mid 6os the Black and Tans made their mark with Elegy E25c, Sinn Fein E35c, Usurper E46a and Nectar E46b, again some of these used minimal aid from nuts and slings but it makes for a much better list. Finally right at the end of the 6os Tom Proctor put up Oedipus Ring Your Mother E46b and Green Death E56b, the only E5 on the list.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Bond StreetHVS 5a ***274920mMillstone Edge
LubricHVS 5b *2328mMillstone Edge
CrewcutVS 4c **28322mMillstone Edge
Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***218120mMillstone Edge
Satan's SlitHVS 5b *7114mMillstone Edge
Regent StreetE2 5c ***130422mMillstone Edge
Green DeathE5 5c ***5418mMillstone Edge
The BlurterHVS 5b ***65422mStanage North
Anniversary ArĂȘteE1 5b **234?Stanage North
DesperationE1 6a ***76612mStanage Popular
SurpriseE1 5c *4216mStanage Plantation
Count's Buttress DirectE3 6a *1614mStanage Plantation
DaydreamerE2 6b ***948mStanage Plantation
Millsom's MinionE1 5b ***168022mStanage Plantation
The TipplerE1 5b ***110218mStanage Popular
Fern GrooveE2 5c **15616mStanage Plantation
QueersvilleHVS 5a ***297516mStanage Popular
EliminatorHVS 5b ***236714mStanage Popular
Yosemite WallE2 5b **61916mStanage Popular
CensorE3 5c ***11516mStanage Popular
CalvaryE4 6a ***29118mStanage Plantation
NectarE4 6b ***4016m• 2Stanage North
Blizzard RidgeHVS 5a ***160814mRivelin Edge
The Brush OffE4 5c ***33510mRivelin Edge
Sinn FeinE3 5c **622mTintwistle Knarr
The ArĂȘteE2 5c ***10522mTintwistle Knarr
PoteenE1 5b **1820mTintwistle Knarr
Millwheel WallE1 5b ***29912mBurbage South...
BoggartE2 6b **8514mBurbage South Edge
Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***226310mBurbage North
Pot BellyE2 5c *414mKinder Northern...
Brother's EliminateE1 5b **1318mKinder Northern...
Little Boy BlueE1 6a *216mKinder Northern...
LegacyHVS 5a ***21420mKinder Northern...
Mustard WallsE2 5c **1916mKinder Northern...
Mummy CrackE1 5b *78mKinder Northern...
Extinguisher ChimneyVS 4c ***1118mKinder Downfall
Ocean WallE1 5b ***12816mStanding Stones
Wall and BulgeE2 5b **1010mWimberry Rocks
GalileoE1 5c **17518mShining Clough
East RibHVS 5a ***32514mShining Clough
Pisa Super DirectHVS 5a ***42620mShining Clough
YerthE2 5c *2915mShining Clough
NaadenE1 5b *4812mShining Clough
The Big WallE3 6a **3320mShining Clough
Western FrontE3 5c ***36213mAlmscliff
The Wall of HorrorsE3 6a ***25718mAlmscliff
Left-hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **7810mGardom's Edge
Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **3020mGardom's Edge
Undercut CrackE2 5c **648mBamford Edge
MoglichkeitHS 4b 1308mBamford Edge
Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***152114mBamford Edge
Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***342414mFroggatt Edge
Long John's SlabE3 5c **76114mFroggatt Edge
Oedipus Ring Your MotherE4 6b **1748mFroggatt Edge
ScroachE2 5c **10521mCurbar Edge
UsurperE4 6a ***11712mCurbar Edge
L'HorlaE1 5b ***98410mCurbar Edge
EncouragementE1 5b ***17828m• 2Hen Cloud
The Long and ShortE1 5b *1525m• 2Hen Cloud
WombatE2 5b ***34320mRoaches Upper Tier
WallerooE2 5c **6620mRoaches Upper Tier
West's WallabyVS 4c *29524mRoaches Upper Tier
ElegyE2 5c ***50716mRoaches Lower Tier
The SwanE3 5c ***13826mRoaches Lower Tier
Great West RoadE3 5b ***27234m• 2Millstone Edge
Orang-outangE2 5c ***35112mStanage North
104 e, 157 stars34,1511,102m• 71