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Ben moving up the Arete
© henrygiles99, Sep 2020

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST ticklist

contributed by TGreen Mar/17

An Extract from the UBMC (University of Birmingham Mountaineering Club) Journal 1962 (with some additions from 1965)
By Two or Three life members who wish to remain anonymous and who can blame them!

"Graded lists one believes were designed to give the reader some idea of the relative difficulty of the climbs under review so that he would not climb out of his standard. Perhaps this is still true to a lesser extent but, nowadays, the full satisfaction cannot be obtained from a list until after the climbs have been done or attempted by the climber. Then he will be able to scorn the list and marvel how anyone could be so deranged as to list the climbs in such an order. The authors, realising this, prefer to remain anonymous but, nevertheless, believe the list to be reasonably accurate. We have not attempted to grade climbs of a lower standard than severe as our memories of our near failures on 'Diffs' have conveniently become fogged. Divisions between standards are arbitrary but tend to follow the pattern laid down in Llanberis North. Here then is the list:- "

User Percentage Latest Log
1 mikej 72% 9 Jun, 2019
2 Martin Bennett 58% 7 Aug, 2018
3 Rick51 55% 24 May
4 babymoac 42% 16 Jul, 2018
5 michael burrows 40% 13 Apr, 2019
6 rogerskews 26% 25 Apr, 2017
7 TGreen 20% 29 Aug
8 Rosie Green 20% 31 Aug
9 Ian Archer 15% 25 Aug
10 Hidden 13% 14 Jun

Map of routes in this ticklist

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
MILD SEVERE
Great Gully S *** 201 267m • 11 Craig Yr Ysfa
Five Pitch Route S 4b * 530 34m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Two Pitch Route S * 562 30m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Grooved Wall HS 14 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Holly Buttress VS 4c * 38 ? Dinas Cromlech
Wall Climb HS 4b ** 495 46m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Dives/Better Things VS 4b *** 1315 60m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Crown of Thorns S 4a * 182 41m • 3 Craig Ddu
Crackstone Rib S 4a *** 3473 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
The Cracks HS 4c *** 1990 90m • 6 Dinas Mot
Oblique Buttress S * 16 59m Glyder Fach
Cromlech Grooves S 1 30m Dinas Cromlech
Poor Man's Peuterey S 4a *** 2137 75m • 5 Craig Pant Ifan...
Dead Entrance VD 5 ? Carreg Wastad
Pinnacle Wall HS * 6 30m • 2 Clogwyn yr Eryr...
Paradise HS 4a * 46 85m • 3 Y Lliwedd
Tennis Shoe HS 4b *** 2942 137m • 5 Idwal Slabs (aka...
MEDIUM SEVERE
Nea VS 4b ** 1744 75m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
Ash Tree Wall VS 4c * 47 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Upper Slab Climb S * 5 ? Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm...
Cheek S 5 50m Tryfan
Bluebell Traverse S 4a 1 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
The Girdle of the Nose VS 4c 5 47m • 3 Dinas Mot
Delphos HVS 5a * 28 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Yellow Slab HS 1 69m • 3 Y Lliwedd
Soapgut HS 4b ** 357 ? Tryfan
Notanda HS 4a 3 ? Dinas Cromlech
Thumb Crack HVS 5a 1 ? Castell Graig...
Original Route VS 5a *** 827 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
HARD SEVERE
Chimney Route HS 4a 91 ? Tryfan
Halan HS 4b 7 ? Carreg Wastad
Javelin Gully HS 4b * 101 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Valerie's Rib HS 4b ** 2005 70m • 3 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Side Entry S 2 66m • 4 Clogwyn y Bustach
Zip Wall HS 4b * 156 25m Carreg Mianog
Garlic groove S 3c 7 63m • 3 Craig Ddu
Thomson's Chimney HS 4b * 378 ? Tryfan
Sunset Crack VS 5a * 56 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Hazel Groove HS 4b * 91 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Main Scoop Route HS 4b 14 ? Carreg Wastad
Christmas Curry S 4a *** 3139 75m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Trilon HVS 5b * 103 ? Carreg Wastad
Marble Slab HS 4b ** 843 18m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
MILD VERY SEVERE
Alpha VS 4b * 94 30m Glyder Fach
Fatha VS 4b 1 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Via Media VS 5a * 60 48m • 2 Craig Aderyn (Teyrn...
Question Mark VS 4c 3 48m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Long Tree Gate VS 4c 14 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Rienetta VS 4c ** 324 ? • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
North Side Route VS 4c * 3 ? Tryfan
Unicorn HVS 5b * 158 65m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Shadrach VS 4c ** 1703 ? • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Pharaoh's Wall VS 4c * 168 ? Dinas Cromlech
Long Chimney VS 4c 8 58m • 2 Tryfan
Direct Route VS 5b *** 1520 74m • 4 Dinas Mot
Little Sepulchre VS 4b * 99 ? Drws y Gwynt
Via Gellia VS 4b 4 ? Craig y Gelli
Great Slab VS 4c *** 317 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Lorraine VS 4c ** 679 79m • 5 Dinas Mot
One Step in the Clouds VS 4c *** 4189 69m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Petite Fleur HS 4b * 64 34m Craig Ddu
Terrace Crack VS 4c 13 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Western Slabs VS 4c ** 1289 60m • 3 Dinas Mot
Oxo VS 4c ** 122 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Bovril VS 4c 17 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Babel HVS 5a * 30 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Merlin VS 5a * 865 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Niobe VS 4c 28 ? Craig y Castell...
Sabre Cut VS 4c *** 1403 55m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Belle Vue Bastion VS 4c ** 485 48m • 2 Tryfan
Yellow Groove VS 4b ** 311 36m • 2 Craig Ddu
Munich Climb HVS 5a ** 261 60m • 3 Tryfan
Sheerline HS 4c * 42 30m Craig y Gesail...
Chimney Route VS 4c * 30 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Great Western VS 4c * 332 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Longland's Climb VS 4c ** 320 126m • 5 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
MEDIUM VERY SEVERE
Curving Crack VS 4c ** 264 66m • 3 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Corniog VS 4c 1 ? Craig y Castell...
Shadow Wall VS 4c *** 1250 45m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Rackstone Crib VS 4b * 45 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Bole Way VS 4c * 81 ? Carreg Wastad
Mur y Niwl VS 4c *** 405 ? Craig Yr Ysfa
Scratch VS 4c ** 1287 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Olympic Slab VS 4c ** 274 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Pedestal Crack HVS 5a ** 169 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Striptease VS 5a ** 1383 50m • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Shake VS 28 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Noah's Warning VS 5a *** 814 ? Dinas Cromlech
Phantom Rib VS 4c ** 1510 74m • 5 Clogwyn y Grochan
Bilberry Buttress VS 4c *** 1695 76m • 3 Raven Crag...
Grim Wall VS 4c ** 2094 54m • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Broad Walk VS 4c 2 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Heather Wall VS 4c ** 212 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Pharaoh's Passage VS 4c 53 ? Dinas Cromlech
Cracked Arete VS 4c *** 265 ? Carreg Mianog
Cornix HVS 4c 21 ? Carreg Wastad
Baskerville VS 4c ** 503 ? Raven Crag...
Carol Crack HVS 4c 10 45m • 2 Clogwyn y Wenallt
Meshach HVS 5a *** 1627 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Narrow Slab HVS 4c * 24 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
East Gully Groove HVS 5b 27 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Sheaf VS 4c ** 125 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Bow-shaped Slab HVS 5a * 31 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Bovine HVS 5b ** 174 ? • 3 Clogwyn y Wenallt
Lion VS 4c ** 429 90m • 4 Carreg Wastad
Javelin HVS 5a * 72 63m • 3 Craig y Gesail...
Brant VS 4c ** 916 120m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
HARD VERY SEVERE
The Old Girdle Traverse VS 4c 4 ? Carreg Wastad
Slape VS 5a * 95 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
The New Girdle Traverse VS 4c 6 ? Carreg Wastad
Pigott's Climb HVS 5a ** 133 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Helsinki Wall E1 5b * 217 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Ribstone Crack VS 4c ** 746 55m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Biceps Wall VS 5a * 124 34m • 2 Carreg Mianog
Erosion Groove HVS 5a 62 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Deuterus E1 5b 61 ? Raven Crag...
Ochre Groove E1 5b * 36 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
West Rib HVS 5a ** 700 ? Dinas Mot
Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b ** 741 ? Dinas Cromlech
Spectre HVS 5a *** 1101 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Brant Direct HVS 5a *** 1555 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Gryphon HVS 5b * 24 68m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Left Edge E1 5a * 39 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Laugh Not HVS 5b *** 607 ? White Ghyll
Perhaps Not HVS 5a ** 58 ? White Ghyll
EXTREMELY SEVERE
Kaisergebirge Wall HVS 5b ** 680 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Overlapping Wall E1 5b ** 345 75m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Leg Slip E1 5b ** 798 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Diagonal HVS 5a *** 1323 78m • 4 Dinas Mot
Llithrig E1 5c *** 322 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The Corner HVS 5b *** 233 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Hangover E1 5b *** 622 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Karwendel Wall HVS 5b ** 467 34m Clogwyn y Grochan
Cemetery Gates E1 5b *** 2308 52m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Unicorn Direct HVS 5a * 35 60m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Cenotaph Corner E1 5c *** 1834 ? Dinas Cromlech
Old Holborn E1 5b ** 240 ? Carreg Wastad
Epitaph E3 5c * 21 ? Dinas Cromlech
Yellow Wall E2 5b ** 150 48m • 2 Craig Ddu
First Slip E1 5c ** 467 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Bloody Slab E3 5b ** 49 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The Thing E2 5c *** 170 ? Dinas Cromlech
Vember E1 5b *** 280 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Vector E2 5c *** 1258 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Suicide Wall Route 1 E2 5c *** 267 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
28 e, 214 stars 72,895 3,814m 260
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