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Belle Vue Bastion, Tryfan
© Gordon Stainforth, Jul 1989

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST ticklist

contributed by TGreen Mar/17

An Extract from the UBMC (University of Birmingham Mountaineering Club) Journal 1962 (with some additions from 1965)
By Two or Three life members who wish to remain anonymous and who can blame them!

"Graded lists one believes were designed to give the reader some idea of the relative difficulty of the climbs under review so that he would not climb out of his standard. Perhaps this is still true to a lesser extent but, nowadays, the full satisfaction cannot be obtained from a list until after the climbs have been done or attempted by the climber. Then he will be able to scorn the list and marvel how anyone could be so deranged as to list the climbs in such an order. The authors, realising this, prefer to remain anonymous but, nevertheless, believe the list to be reasonably accurate. We have not attempted to grade climbs of a lower standard than severe as our memories of our near failures on 'Diffs' have conveniently become fogged. Divisions between standards are arbitrary but tend to follow the pattern laid down in Llanberis North. Here then is the list:- "

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 MILD SEVERE
Great GullyVD **171267m• 11Craig Yr Ysfa
Five Pitch RouteS 4b *42434mClogwyn Bochlwyd
Two Pitch RouteS *46430mClogwyn Bochlwyd
Grooved WallHS 14?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Holly ButtressVS 4c *37?Dinas Cromlech
Wall ClimbHS 4b **43746mClogwyn Bochlwyd
Dives/Better ThingsVS 4b ***111860m• 2Dinas Cromlech
Crown of ThornsS 4a *16941m• 3Craig Ddu
Crackstone RibS 4a ***269155m• 3Carreg Wastad
The CracksHS 4c ***169890m• 6Dinas Mot
Oblique ButtressS *1559mGlyder Fach
Cromlech GroovesS 130mDinas Cromlech
Poor Man's PeutereyS 4a ***193775m• 5Craig Pant Ifan...
Dead EntranceVD 5?Carreg Wastad
Pinnacle WallHS *630m• 2Clogwyn yr Eryr...
ParadiseHS 4a *4085m• 3Y Lliwedd
Tennis ShoeHS 4b ***2511137m• 5Idwal Slabs (aka...
 MEDIUM SEVERE
NeaVS 4b **155575m• 4Clogwyn y Grochan
Ash Tree WallVS 4c *40?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Upper Slab ClimbS *5?Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm...
CheekS 450mTryfan
Bluebell TraverseS 4a 1?Clogwyn y Grochan
The Girdle of the NoseVS 4c 547m• 3Dinas Mot
DelphosHVS 5a *26?Clogwyn y Grochan
Yellow SlabHS -69m• 3Y Lliwedd
SoapgutHS 4b **324?Milestone Buttress
NotandaHS 4a 3?Dinas Cromlech
Thumb CrackHVS 5a 1?Castell Graig...
Original RouteVS 5a ***722?Idwal Slabs (aka...
 HARD SEVERE
Chimney RouteHS 4a 87?Milestone Buttress
HalanHS 4b 7?Carreg Wastad
Javelin GullyHS 4b *96?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Valerie's RibHS 4b **178570m• 3Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Side EntryS 166m• 4Clogwyn y Bustach
Zip WallHS 4b *11225mCarreg Mianog
Garlic grooveS 3c 763m• 3Craig Ddu
Thomson's ChimneyHS 4b *311?Tryfan
Sunset CrackVS 5a *50?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Hazel GrooveHS 4b *84?Clogwyn y Grochan
Main Scoop RouteHS 4b 11?Carreg Wastad
Christmas CurryS 4a ***288075m• 4Craig Bwlch y Moch...
TrilonHVS 5b *93?Carreg Wastad
Marble SlabHS 4b **70618mClogwyn Bochlwyd
 MILD VERY SEVERE
AlphaVS 4b *8530mGlyder Fach
FathaVS 4b -?Clogwyn y Grochan
Via MediaVS 5a *5248m• 2Craig Aderyn (Teyrn...
Question MarkVS 4c 348m• 2Carreg Wastad
Long Tree GateVS 4c 14?Clogwyn y Grochan
RienettaHS 4a **271?• 2Craig Bwlch y Moch...
North Side RouteVS 4c *3?Tryfan
UnicornHVS 5b *14265m• 3Carreg Wastad
ShadrachVS 4c **1679?• 2Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Pharaoh's WallVS 4c *143?Dinas Cromlech
Long ChimneyVS 4c 858m• 2Tryfan
Direct RouteVS 5b ***128574m• 4Dinas Mot
Little SepulchreVS 4b *89?Drws y Gwynt
Via GelliaVS 4b 4?Craig y Gelli
Great SlabVS 4c ***251?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
LorraineVS 4c **58079m• 5Dinas Mot
One Step in the CloudsVS 4c ***370269m• 4Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Petite FleurHS 4b *6134mCraig Ddu
Terrace CrackVS 4c 13?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Western SlabsVS 4c **109060m• 3Dinas Mot
OxoVS 4c **109?Clogwyn y Wenallt
BovrilVS 4c 15?Clogwyn y Wenallt
BabelHVS 5a *29?Clogwyn y Grochan
MerlinVS 5a *754?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
NiobeVS 4c 27?Craig y Castell...
Sabre CutVS 4c ***123855m• 2Dinas Cromlech
Belle Vue BastionVS 4c **41248m• 2Tryfan
Yellow GrooveVS 4b **27736m• 2Craig Ddu
Munich ClimbHVS 5a **21860m• 3Tryfan
SheerlineHS 4c *3530mCraig y Gesail...
Chimney RouteVS 4c *30?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Great WesternVS 4c *301?Craig Pant Ifan...
Longland's ClimbVS 4c **288126m• 5Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
 MEDIUM VERY SEVERE
Curving CrackVS 4c **24166m• 3Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
CorniogVS 4c 1?Craig y Castell...
Shadow WallVS 4c ***117445m• 2Carreg Wastad
Rackstone CribVS 4b *4355m• 3Carreg Wastad
Bole WayVS 4c *73?Carreg Wastad
Mur y NiwlVS 4c ***320?Craig Yr Ysfa
ScratchVS 4c **1181?Craig Pant Ifan...
Olympic SlabVS 4c **216?Craig Pant Ifan...
Pedestal CrackHVS 5a **152?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
StripteaseVS 5a **122950m• 2Craig Bwlch y Moch...
ShakeVS 26?Clogwyn y Wenallt
Noah's WarningVS 5a ***723?Dinas Cromlech
Phantom RibVS 4c **130874m• 5Clogwyn y Grochan
Bilberry ButtressVS 4c ***128876m• 3Raven Crag...
Grim WallVS 4c **194454m• 2Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Broad WalkVS 4c 2?Clogwyn y Grochan
Heather WallVS 4c **181?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Pharaoh's PassageVS 4c 47?Dinas Cromlech
Cracked AreteVS 4c ***195?Carreg Mianog
CornixHVS 4c 19?Carreg Wastad
BaskervilleVS 4c **448?Raven Crag...
Carol CrackHVS 4c 1045m• 2Clogwyn y Wenallt
MeshachHVS 5a ***1431?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Narrow SlabHVS 4c *23?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
East Gully GrooveHVS 5b 22?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
SheafVS 4c **106?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Bow-shaped SlabHVS 5a *30?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
BovineHVS 5b **158?• 3Clogwyn y Wenallt
LionVS 4c **35790m• 4Carreg Wastad
JavelinHVS 5a *6663m• 3Craig y Gesail...
BrantVS 4c **882120m• 4Clogwyn y Grochan
 HARD VERY SEVERE
The Old Girdle TraverseVS 4c 4?Carreg Wastad
SlapeVS 5a *83?Clogwyn y Grochan
The New Girdle TraverseVS 4c 5?Carreg Wastad
Pigott's ClimbHVS 5a **122?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Helsinki WallE1 5b *196?Craig Pant Ifan...
Ribstone CrackVS 4c **66555m• 2Carreg Wastad
Biceps WallVS 5a *9734m• 2Carreg Mianog
Erosion GrooveHVS 5a 6055m• 3Carreg Wastad
DeuterusE1 5b 59?Raven Crag...
Ochre GrooveE1 5b *36?Clogwyn y Grochan
West RibHVS 5a **605?Dinas Mot
Ivy SepulchreE1 5b **667?Dinas Cromlech
SpectreHVS 5a ***968?Clogwyn y Grochan
Brant DirectHVS 5a ***1378?Clogwyn y Grochan
GryphonHVS 5b *2368m• 3Carreg Wastad
Left EdgeE1 5a *35?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Laugh NotHVS 5b ***503?White Ghyll
Perhaps NotHVS 5a **45?White Ghyll
 EXTREMELY SEVERE
Kaisergebirge WallHVS 5b **590?Clogwyn y Grochan
Overlapping WallE1 5b **31275m• 3Carreg Wastad
Leg SlipE1 5b **674?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
DiagonalHVS 5a ***111178m• 4Dinas Mot
LlithrigE1 5c ***284?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The CornerHVS 5b ***199?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
HangoverE1 5b ***539?Clogwyn y Grochan
Karwendel WallHVS 5b **40734mClogwyn y Grochan
Cemetery GatesE1 5b ***199152m• 2Dinas Cromlech
Unicorn DirectHVS 5a *3560m• 3Carreg Wastad
Cenotaph CornerE1 5c ***1541?Dinas Cromlech
Old HolbornE1 5b **221?Carreg Wastad
EpitaphE3 5c *16?Dinas Cromlech
Yellow WallE2 5b **13748m• 2Craig Ddu
First SlipE1 5c **404?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Bloody SlabE3 5b **43?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The ThingE2 5c ***159?Dinas Cromlech
VemberE1 5b ***244?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
VectorE2 5c ***1120?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Suicide Wall Route 1E2 5c ***242?Idwal Slabs (aka...
28 e, 213 stars63,5783,814m• 260