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Do British crags get any better !
© Seymore Butt, Apr 2015

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST ticklist

contributed by TGreen Mar/17

An Extract from the UBMC (University of Birmingham Mountaineering Club) Journal 1962 (with some additions from 1965)
By Two or Three life members who wish to remain anonymous and who can blame them!

"Graded lists one believes were designed to give the reader some idea of the relative difficulty of the climbs under review so that he would not climb out of his standard. Perhaps this is still true to a lesser extent but, nowadays, the full satisfaction cannot be obtained from a list until after the climbs have been done or attempted by the climber. Then he will be able to scorn the list and marvel how anyone could be so deranged as to list the climbs in such an order. The authors, realising this, prefer to remain anonymous but, nevertheless, believe the list to be reasonably accurate. We have not attempted to grade climbs of a lower standard than severe as our memories of our near failures on 'Diffs' have conveniently become fogged. Divisions between standards are arbitrary but tend to follow the pattern laid down in Llanberis North. Here then is the list:- "

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1 mikej 72% 30 Sep, 2015
2 Martin Bennett 56% 25 Jul, 2019
3 Rick51 55% 2019
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5 michael burrows 40% 13 Apr, 2019
6 Hidden 28% 14 May
7 rogerskews 26% Apr, 2004
8 TGreen 20% 29 Aug, 2021
9 Rosie Green 17% 29 Aug, 2021
10 Ian Archer 15% 10 Aug, 2002

Map of routes in this ticklist

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
MILD SEVERE
Great Gully S *** 203 267m • 11 Craig Yr Ysfa
Five Pitch Route S 4b * 552 34m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Two Pitch Route S * 584 30m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Grooved Wall HS 14 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Holly Buttress VS 4c * 38 ? Dinas Cromlech
Wall Climb HS 4b ** 510 46m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Dives/Better Things VS 4b *** 1348 60m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Crown of Thorns S 4a * 186 41m • 3 Craig Ddu
Crackstone Rib S 4a *** 3227 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
The Cracks HS 4c *** 2054 90m • 6 Dinas Mot
Oblique Buttress S * 16 59m Glyder Fach
Cromlech Grooves S 1 30m Dinas Cromlech
Poor Man's Peuterey S 4a *** 2191 75m • 5 Craig Pant Ifan...
Dead Entrance VD 5 ? Carreg Wastad
Pinnacle Wall HS * 6 30m • 2 Clogwyn yr Eryr...
Paradise HS 4a * 47 85m • 3 Y Lliwedd
Tennis Shoe HS 4b *** 3027 137m • 5 Idwal Slabs (aka...
MEDIUM SEVERE
Nea VS 4b ** 1798 75m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
Ash Tree Wall VS 4c * 47 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Upper Slab Climb S * 5 ? Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm...
Cheek S 5 50m Tryfan
Bluebell Traverse S 4a 1 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
The Girdle of the Nose VS 4c 5 47m • 3 Dinas Mot
Delphos HVS 5a * 28 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Yellow Slab HS 1 69m • 3 Y Lliwedd
Soapgut HS 4b ** 360 ? Tryfan
Notanda HS 4a 3 ? Dinas Cromlech
Thumb Crack HVS 5a 1 ? Castell Graig...
Original Route VS 5a *** 855 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
HARD SEVERE
Chimney Route HS 4a 93 ? Tryfan
Halan HS 4b 7 ? Carreg Wastad
Javelin Gully HS 4b * 102 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Valerie's Rib HS 4b ** 2048 70m • 3 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Side Entry S 2 66m • 4 Clogwyn y Bustach
Zip Wall HS 4b * 169 25m Carreg Mianog
Garlic groove S 3c 7 63m • 3 Craig Ddu
Thomson's Chimney HS 4b * 384 ? Tryfan
Sunset Crack VS 5a * 57 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Hazel Groove HS 4b * 92 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Main Scoop Route HS 4b 16 ? Carreg Wastad
Christmas Curry S 4a *** 3213 75m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Trilon HVS 5b * 108 ? Carreg Wastad
Marble Slab HS 4b ** 872 18m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
MILD VERY SEVERE
Alpha VS 4b * 98 30m Glyder Fach
Fatha VS 4b 1 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Via Media VS 5a * 63 48m • 2 Craig Aderyn (Teyrn...
Question Mark VS 4c 3 48m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Long Tree Gate VS 4c 14 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Rienetta VS 4c ** 340 ? • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
North Side Route VS 4c * 3 ? Tryfan
Unicorn HVS 5b * 164 65m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Shadrach VS 4c ** 1715 ? • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Pharaoh's Wall VS 4c * 171 ? Dinas Cromlech
Long Chimney VS 4c 8 58m • 2 Tryfan
Direct Route VS 5b *** 1591 74m • 4 Dinas Mot
Little Sepulchre VS 4b * 101 ? Drws y Gwynt
Via Gellia VS 4b 4 ? Craig y Gelli
Great Slab VS 4c *** 320 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Lorraine VS 4c ** 695 79m • 5 Dinas Mot
One Step in the Clouds VS 4c *** 4313 69m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Petite Fleur HS 4b * 64 34m Craig Ddu
Terrace Crack VS 4c 13 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Western Slabs VS 4c ** 1307 60m • 3 Dinas Mot
Oxo VS 4c ** 123 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Bovril VS 4c 17 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Babel HVS 5a * 30 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Merlin VS 5a * 878 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Niobe VS 4c 28 ? Craig y Castell...
Sabre Cut VS 4c *** 1439 55m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Belle Vue Bastion VS 4c ** 499 48m • 2 Tryfan
Yellow Groove VS 4b ** 323 36m • 2 Craig Ddu
Munich Climb HVS 5a ** 265 60m • 3 Tryfan
Sheerline HS 4c * 43 30m Craig y Gesail...
Chimney Route VS 4c * 31 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Great Western VS 4c * 339 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Longland's Climb VS 4c ** 322 126m • 5 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
MEDIUM VERY SEVERE
Curving Crack VS 4c ** 267 66m • 3 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Corniog VS 4c 1 ? Craig y Castell...
Shadow Wall VS 4c *** 1296 45m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Rackstone Crib VS 4b * 47 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Bole Way VS 4c * 84 ? Carreg Wastad
Mur y Niwl VS 4c *** 411 ? Craig Yr Ysfa
Scratch VS 4c ** 1315 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Olympic Slab VS 4c ** 282 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Pedestal Crack HVS 5a ** 169 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Striptease VS 5a ** 1404 50m • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Shake VS 28 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Noah's Warning VS 5a *** 844 ? Dinas Cromlech
Phantom Rib VS 4c ** 1571 74m • 5 Clogwyn y Grochan
Bilberry Buttress VS 4c *** 1594 76m • 3 Raven Crag...
Grim Wall VS 4c ** 2142 54m • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Broad Walk VS 4c 2 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Heather Wall VS 4c ** 215 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Pharaoh's Passage VS 4c 54 ? Dinas Cromlech
Cracked Arete VS 4c *** 285 ? Carreg Mianog
Cornix HVS 4c 23 ? Carreg Wastad
Baskerville VS 4c ** 513 ? Raven Crag...
Carol Crack HVS 4c 10 45m • 2 Clogwyn y Wenallt
Meshach HVS 5a *** 1662 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Narrow Slab HVS 4c * 25 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
East Gully Groove HVS 5b 28 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Sheaf VS 4c ** 125 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Bow-shaped Slab HVS 5a * 31 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Bovine HVS 5b ** 177 ? • 3 Clogwyn y Wenallt
Lion VS 4c ** 451 90m • 4 Carreg Wastad
Javelin HVS 5a * 75 63m • 3 Craig y Gesail...
Brant VS 4c ** 951 120m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
HARD VERY SEVERE
The Old Girdle Traverse VS 4c 4 ? Carreg Wastad
Slape VS 5a * 97 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
The New Girdle Traverse VS 4c 6 ? Carreg Wastad
Pigott's Climb HVS 5a ** 134 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Helsinki Wall E1 5b * 219 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Ribstone Crack VS 4c ** 766 55m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Biceps Wall VS 5a * 132 34m • 2 Carreg Mianog
Erosion Groove HVS 5a 64 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Deuterus E1 5b 62 ? Raven Crag...
Ochre Groove E1 5b * 37 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
West Rib HVS 5a ** 708 ? Dinas Mot
Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b ** 753 ? Dinas Cromlech
Spectre HVS 5a *** 1133 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Brant Direct HVS 5a *** 1625 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Gryphon HVS 5b * 24 68m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Left Edge E1 5a * 39 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Laugh Not HVS 5b *** 631 ? White Ghyll
Perhaps Not HVS 5a ** 60 ? White Ghyll
EXTREMELY SEVERE
Kaisergebirge Wall HVS 5b ** 702 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Overlapping Wall E1 5b ** 362 75m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Leg Slip E1 5b ** 813 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Diagonal HVS 5a *** 1357 78m • 4 Dinas Mot
Llithrig E1 5c *** 325 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The Corner HVS 5b *** 236 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Hangover E1 5b *** 641 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Karwendel Wall HVS 5b ** 480 34m Clogwyn y Grochan
Cemetery Gates E1 5b *** 2374 52m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Unicorn Direct HVS 5a * 39 60m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Cenotaph Corner E1 5c *** 1876 ? Dinas Cromlech
Old Holborn E1 5b ** 247 ? Carreg Wastad
Epitaph E3 5c * 22 ? Dinas Cromlech
Yellow Wall E2 5b ** 153 48m • 2 Craig Ddu
First Slip E1 5c ** 480 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Bloody Slab E3 5b ** 49 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The Thing E2 5c *** 173 ? Dinas Cromlech
Vember E1 5b *** 282 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Vector E2 5c *** 1293 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Suicide Wall Route 1 E2 5c *** 275 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
28 e, 214 stars 74,368 3,814m 260
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