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Gaz just passing the crux on the 2nd pitch of the Old Man
© madasten, Aug 2014

Big Routes ticklist

contributed by kez1 Mar/17

This is a selection of classic big routes, I have covered classic areas such as Wales, Scotland and the south coast for warming up. The dolomites and Chamonix areas for taking your new found skills to bigger, more serious environments. There are other classic routes in the Alps ranging in difficulty from easy snow plods to serious North Faces. There are some of the big walls of North America, ranging from easier 1 day routes to desperate routes requiring weeks to be spent on the wall. The climbing is a mixture of sport and trad, ice and mixed, free and aid. There are also via ferratas and scrambles. Getting to the top and back down again safely is paramount on most of the bigger routes on this list so ethics take a back seat, that is not to say go drilling bolts every metre but a few moves of french free would not be frowned upon.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Snakes and Ladders ApproachHVS 5a 918?California
Snakes and Ladders (and chains)VF1A ***84?• 10Dali's Hole
Supermassive Black Hole7a ***12675m• 4Twll Mawr
AvalancheVD ***130162m• 6Y Lliwedd
Red Wall and Longland's ContinuationVD ***185137m• 7Y Lliwedd
Grooved ArêteHVD 4a ***3074230m• 8Tryfan
Pinnacle Rib RouteD ***1581164m• 6Tryfan
The Parson's NoseD **48175mClogwyn y Ddysgl
Cneifion AreteD ***2408140mCwm Cneifion
Amphitheatre ButtressVD ***1343?Craig Yr Ysfa
Crib Goch - Crib Y Ddysgl Traverse (Summer)1 **732?Crib Goch
Crib Goch - Crib Y Ddysgl Traverse (Winter)I ***255850mCrib Goch
Central TrinityII 2 ***536?Clogwyn y Garnedd
South GullyIV 4 ***224140m• 4Devils Kitchen (Cwm...
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando RidgeVD ***2563200m• 8Bosigran Ridge Area
Skeleton RidgeHVS 4c ***69160m• 6The Needles
Clach Glas - Blabheinn Traverse (Summer)D ***405?Bla Bheinn
Pinnacle Ridge (Summer)D ***556?Sgurr nan Gillean
Dawn Grooves (Summer)HVS 4c ***4175m• 7Sgurr Mhic Choinnich
King CobraE1 5b ***29210m• 7Sgurr Mhic Choinnich
Ardverikie WallHS 4b ***987185m• 6Binnein Shuas
South Ridge DirectVS 5a ***515?• 13Cir Mhor
East Face Route (Original Route)E1 5b ***600130m• 5(Old Man of) Hoy
The NeedleE1 5b ***369260mShelterstone Crag
SteepleE2 5c ***198250mShelterstone Crag
The Long ClimbVS ***96420m• 11Ben Nevis
CenturionHVS 5a ***370?Ben Nevis
The BatE2 5b ***105?Ben Nevis
Titan's WallE3 5c ***56?Ben Nevis
Cioch NoseVD **27340m• 2Sron na Ciche
Aonach Eagach Ridge (Summer)2 ***1227?Aonach Eagach -...
Aonach Eagach Ridge (Winter)II ***1305?Aonach Eagach -...
Tower RidgeD ***1582600mBen Nevis
Tower RidgeIV 3 ***1509800mBen Nevis
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer)VD ***846?Cuillin Ridge...
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Winter)IV ***74?Cuillin Ridge...
Zero GullyV 4 ***245300mBen Nevis
Point Five GullyV 5 ***750?Ben Nevis
Masare (VF)VF2B ***51?Roda di Vaèl
StegerVI- ***30730m• 18Cima Catinaccio...
StegerV+ ***21410m• 11Punta Emma
Piaz CrackV ***14290m• 7Punta Emma
Piaz Arete/DelagokanteIV+ ***161160m• 4Vajolet Towers
Sentiero MassimilianoVF2B ***12?Val Duron
Marmolada West Ridge to Punta Penia (VF)VF4C ***121?Marmolada
Vinatzer - CastiglioniVI+ ***24800m• 30Marmolada
Messner DirectVI+ ***14540m• 13Marmolada
Don QuixoteVI+ ***47750m• 22Marmolada
Schwalbenschwanz/Swallow's TailVI ***3900m• 25Marmolada
Via Delle Trincee/La MesolaVF4B ***256500mLa Mesola
FedeleIV+ ***28800m• 27Sass Pordoi
Delle Mèsules/Possnecker (VF)VF4C ***78800mSella Towers
Sandro PertiniVF4B ***68?Vallunga Valley
Brigata Tridentina (VF)VF3B ***347750mTorre Exner
Adang/Old South FaceV ***48500m• 12Sas Ciampac
Piz da Lech (VF)VF3B ***197350mVallon
MessnerV ***22270m• 6Sasso delle Nove...
Tomaselli (VF)VF5C ***721,000mPunta di Mezzo di...
Via del DragoV+ ***17355m• 12Lagazuoi Nord
South ArêteIV+ ***345150m• 6Sass de Stria...
Comici - South AreteV- ***233200m• 6Falzarego Towers
Giovanni Lipella Via FerrataVF4C ***1421,250mTofana di Rozes
Punta Anna (VF)VF5C ***149?Tofana di Mezzo
MyriamV+ ***206?Cinque Torri
AlveràIV+ ***74150m• 7Averau
Ivano DibonaVF2B ***82?Cristallo Group
Marino BianchiVF2B **66?Cristallo Group
Francesco BertiVF3C ***23?Sorapiss Group
Sentiero Carlo MinazioVF1C *23?Sorapiss Group
Alfonso VandelliVF3B ***27?Sorapiss Group
South Face via East Face Of Torre LeoVI- ***27130m• 6Il Gobbo, Torre del...
CassinVII- ***61250m• 11Tre Cime
Hasse-BrandlerVIII+ ***45?Tre Cime
Comici-DimaiVII+ ***124550m• 18Tre Cime
CassinVIII ***9450m• 12Tre Cime
Forbes ArêteAD 3 ***231?Aiguille du...
Migot SpurD- 3 ***118500mAiguille du...
Swiss RouteTD- 4 ***67800mLes Courtes
Grands Montets RidgeD+ ***23?L'Aiguille Verte
The North FaceTD+ ***51850mLes Dru
South Ridge IntegralD+ 5c ***29600mAiguille de Moine
Whymper CouloirAD+ 2 ***46700mL'Aiguille Verte
Les Courtes TraverseAD 2 ***26550mLes Courtes
Walker SpurED1 6a ***50?Grandes Jorasses
Colton-MacIntyreED2 6 ***13?Grandes Jorasses
Croz SpurED1 ***141,000mGrandes Jorasses
Grandes Jorasses TraverseD 5a ***30?• 2Grandes Jorasses
Southeast RidgeTD+ 6b ***3?Envers des Aiguilles
Le marchand de sableTD+ 6a+ ***111?Envers des Aiguilles
Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la luneTD+ 6b ***37800m• 25Envers des Aiguilles
Mer de Glace FaceD+ 5c ***56?Envers des Aiguilles
Voie Normale (République)D+ 5c ***75?Envers des Aiguilles
Cordier PillarTD 6b ***120750m• 25Charmoz Grepon
Charmoz-Grépon TraverseD+ 6b ***21?Charmoz Grepon
Papillons ArêteD+ 5c ***572?• 12Aiguille du Peigne
Frendo SpurD+ 4 ***3491,200mAiguille du Midi
Mallory-PorterAD+ 3 **391,000mAiguille du Midi
Arete des CosmiquesAD 3 ***2518350mAiguille du Midi
Cosmiques IcefallTD+ 5 **34200m• 4Aiguille du Midi
Rebuffat-PierreTD- 6a+ ***356120m• 4Aiguille du Midi
Rébuffat-BaquetTD+ 6a ***443250mAiguille du Midi
Midi-Plan TraverseAD ***470?Aiguille du Plan
Southwest FaceAD+ 4c ***354?Dent du Geant
The Rochefort RidgeAD 2 ***164?Aiguille de...
North FaceD 3 ***200350mTour Ronde
Rebuffat GullyTD **24350mTour Ronde
Kuffner RidgeD 4c ***186700mMont Maudit
Brenva Spur (Gussfeldt Start)D- 3 ***32800mMont Blanc
Arête du Diable TraverseD+ 5c ***48600mMont Blanc du Tacul
East RidgeAD+ 5a ***186246m• 8Mont Blanc du Tacul
SupercouloirED1 6 ***29800mMont Blanc du Tacul
Gervasutti PillarTD 6b ***68850mMont Blanc du Tacul
Chèré CouloirD 4 ***581350mMont Blanc du Tacul
Goûter RoutePD ***562?Mont Blanc
Royal TraverseAD+ 2 ***32?Mont Blanc
Central Pillar of FreneyED1 5c ***18?Mont Blanc
Aiguille Noire de PeutéreyTD+ ***261,100m• 42Mont Blanc
Peutérey IntegralED1 ***9?Mont Blanc
Dômes de Miage TraversePD+ ***1083,700mDomes des Miages
Clocher-Clochetons TraverseAD 5a ***298?Aiguilles Rouges
Traversée des CrochuesPD+ 4a ***491?Aiguilles Rouges
Northeast (Hornli) RidgeAD ***2641,220mMatterhorn
Northeast (Mittellegi) RidgeD ***92?Eiger
The 1938 RouteED2 ***44?Eiger
John Harlin RouteED4 -?Eiger
Great White Book5.6 ***45?Stately Pleasure...
South Crack5.8 ***61?Stately Pleasure...
West Crack5.9 ***101?Daff Dome
Cathedral Peak Southeast Buttress A B and C5.6 ***187210m• 5Cathedral Peak
West Pillar (Direct)5.10b ***7?• 6Eichorn Pinnacle
Traverse from North to South5.7 ***2?Matthes Crest
Regular route5.9 ***129?Fairview Dome
Hobbit Book5.7 **17160m• 4Mariuolumne Dome
West Ridge5.6 ***8?Mount Conness
Regular Route5.10b ***28?Third Pillar of Dana
Moonlight Buttress (Aid)C1 ***4?• 10Zion National Park
El Matador5.10c ***14?Devils Tower
Lost Arrow Spire DirectA2 **8?Lost Arrow Spire
Steck / Salathe5.10b ***22460m• 16Sentinel Rock
South Face5.9 4?Mount Watkins
West Face (Leaning Tower)A2 3213mGreat Stone Face...
Regular Northwest Face5.9 ***101600m• 23Half Dome
Northwest Face DirectA3 **2650m• 23Half Dome
Freerider5.12d 8?El Capitan
Salathe Wall5.13c ***501,000m• 35El Capitan
Triple Direct5.13d 6?El Capitan
The NoseC2 ***179?• 31El Capitan
The ShieldC4 8?El Capitan
Muir WallC4 6?El Capitan
Wall of Early Morning LightA3 -?El Capitan
ZodiacA2 ***36?El Capitan
Reticent WallA5 ***2?El Capitan
10 e, 417 stars40,83342,767m• 738