Getting good information on the easier “three star routes” in the Mont Blanc Range is complicated, but a new list of over 100 selected climbs will help mountaineers find route descriptions within a number of guidebooks to the area.
Based largely on the Laroche-Lelong selections, Gus Morton, an Alpine Club member living in the Chamonix Valley, has created a list of selected climbs, with overall grades generally D/D+ and below.
Article:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/less-difficult-classics-in-the-mont-blanc-massif
Download List (PDF):
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=830
UKC Ticklist Omissions:
9 - Can't find Grand Lui - NW Arete and Traverse
16 - Can't find Grand Fourche - Voie Gabarrou
80 - Can't find Tour Ronde - Saadi
81 - Can't find Calotte Brenva - Mitsunori Shigi
97 - Can't find Aiguille du Goûter - N Face
106 - Can't find Lex Blanche - Face NW, Traverse
72 users are subscribed to this ticklist, and none have completed the full list.
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| User | Percentage | Latest Log | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1st | steve_gibbs | 60% | 12 Jul |
| 2nd | QuentinSu | 42% | 23 Jul, 2024 |
| 3rd | bergsget | 37% | 15 Aug |
| 4th | Rob_Morris | 20% | 28 Jun |
| 5th | Hidden | 18% | 29 Jul, 2018 |
| 6th | JimmyTighe | 18% | 11 Jul |
| 7th | Gemmazrobo | 17% | 9 Aug, 2023 |
| 8th | HC13 | 15% | 24 Jul |
| 9th | Jonathan Woodward | 14% | 12 Aug |
| 10th | benclimbing | 14% | 20 Jul, 2024 |
Map of routes in this ticklist
Distribution of grades
Top 12 photos of this ticklist
Arete des Cosmiques
A Popular mixed route up Aiguille du Midi
© Ron Walker
Innominata Ridge
Innominata
© JohnG
Nabot-Léon
Tom and Iain on the atmospheric slab pitch of Nabot-Leon
© jonesdwill
Mallory-Porter
The Mallory, by night.
© Charley Radcliffe
Rébuffat-Baquet
Danny following on a Midi S Face classic.
© Kevin Avery
Le Gateau de Riz
Unknown climber finishing Le Gateau de Riz this August. Taken from the top of Un Eclat de Rire!
© steve-grigg
Arête du Diable Traverse
Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable
© Hamish Frost
Goûter Route
Passing the Vallot hut at Dawn
© Ben Tibbetts
Aiguille d'Entrèves Traverse
Steve on the classic Aig. d'Entreves traverse. Lucky to have it to ourselves!
© ali.scott
Forbes Arête
Mega
© Maxwell
Innominata Ridge
Valentine and Masha preparing to leave the bivouac on the Innominata Ridge
© Ben Tibbetts
Frison-Roche
Jennifer Stretton and Colleen Maclellan topping out on the popular frison-roche long after the last bin down.
© DaveThexton