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Pete on the first pitch, Hell Gates direct variation.
© Sully, May 1981

100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes ticklist

contributed by petecallaghan Dec/16

The 100 best routes in the South West from VS to E1

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Marti999 92% 22 Aug
2 Hidden 75% 19 Sep
3 Bob M 62% 2 Feb, 2017
4 Hidden 60% 4 Sep
5 JoeCoxson 54% 24 Jun, 2020
6 scott titt 53% 30 Jun, 2019
7 timreynolds 51% 28 Sep, 2019
8 Hidden 51% 14 Sep, 2020
9 Hidden 51% 28 Aug
10 Chris Ebbutt 48% 7 May, 2019

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
DORSET
The Maypole HVS 5b *** 1022 80m Lulworth
The Long Goodbye HVS 4c * 45 15m Boulder Ruckle
Elysium E1 5b *** 500 38m Boulder Ruckle
Aventura HVS 4c ** 341 30m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
The Cheshire Cat HVS 4c ** 4 67m • 3 Boulder Ruckle
Lightning Wall HVS 5a *** 747 38m Boulder Ruckle
Finale Groove HVS 4c *** 810 35m Boulder Ruckle
Behemoth HVS 5a *** 197 40m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Jo HVS 5a *** 299 30m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Black Sunshine HVS 5a * 234 38m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
The Golden Fleece HVS 5a ** 89 40m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Buzz Light Year E1 5b ** 128 40m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Thunder Groove HVS 5b ** 187 32m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Ganymede E1 5b ** 17 36m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Strongbow E1 5b *** 147 45m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Tatra E1 5b ** 97 50m • 3 Boulder Ruckle
The Heidelberg Creature HVS 4c ** 421 40m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Ledgend Direct HVS 5a ** 371 33m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
The Spook E1 5b *** 431 33m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Quality Street HVS 4c *** 345 ? Cormorant Ledge
Traverse of the Gods E1 5b *** 35 ? • 16 Subluminal and...
Astrid HVS 5a ** 217 20m Subluminal and...
WYE VALLEY
The Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5a *** 1708 28m Shorn Cliff
No Musketeers HVS 5a *** 731 25m Shorn Cliff
Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a *** 1141 23m Shorn Cliff
Tigers Don't Cry HVS 5a *** 826 18m Shorn Cliff
Red Rose Speedway HVS 5a *** 729 32m Symonds Yat
CULM COAST
Midnight Cowboy HVS 5b *** 566 ? Baggy Point
Undercracker E1 5a ** 219 ? Baggy Point
Lost Horizon VS 5a *** 1333 40m Baggy Point
Sacre Coeur E2 5c *** 492 ? Blackchurch
Wreckers' Slab VS 4b ** 859 115m • 3 Cornakey Cliff
Matchless E1 5b *** 136 50m Oldwalls' Point
Tourist Trap E1 5b ** 246 ? Screda Point
Lunakhod HVS 5a *** 611 40m Lower Sharpnose...
The Smile E1 5a *** 708 35m Lower Sharpnose...
Wreckin' and Divin' HVS 5a *** 1 ? Compass Point (Bude)
CORNWALL
Here to there HVS 4c *** 2 50m • 2 Carn Gowla
Journey to Ixtlan HVS 4c ** 82 ? Carn Gowla
Astral Stroll E1 5b *** 293 88m • 4 Zawn Duel and Carn...
Ochre Slab Route I HVS 5a ** 730 32m • 2 Bosigran
Little Brown Jug VS 5a *** 2202 66m • 3 Bosigran
Anvil Chorus VS 4c *** 1517 54m • 5 Bosigran
Suicide Wall E1 5c *** 1007 78m • 5 Bosigran
Nameless VS 4c *** 847 58m • 3 Bosigran
Saxon HVS 5a *** 746 50m Kenidjack Cliffs
Saxon Direct HVS 5a *** 120 46m Kenidjack Cliffs
Rock Dancer E1 5b *** 444 46m Kenidjack Cliffs
Edge Climb HVS 5a 20 36m • 2 Carn Barra
Dolphin Cracks HVS 5a ** 313 28m • 2 Sennen
Diocese VS 5a *** 824 56m • 4 Chair Ladder
Bishop's ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 59 54m • 3 Chair Ladder
Bishop's Rib E1 5b *** 628 53m • 3 Chair Ladder
Kittiwake HVS 5a ** 135 60m • 2 Chair Ladder
South Face Direct VS 4c *** 1078 59m • 4 Chair Ladder
Saskia HVS 5a ** 29 18m Vessacks West
Sensible Shoes VS 4c *** 130 40m Robin's Rocks
Martell Slab VS 4c *** 125 43m • 3 Tater-du
TORBAY
Moonraker HVS 5a *** 593 76m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Blood E1 5b ** 164 20m Berry Head -...
Crinoid E2 5c *** 357 27m Telegraph Hole
Liaison with Lenin HVS 5a ** 192 24m Telegraph Hole
Gates of Eden HVS 5a *** 524 46m • 3 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to Torquay HVS 5b *** 298 41m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
DARTMOOR
Nimrod HVS 5a ** 28 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Great Western VS 5a *** 607 43m • 4 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Oesophagus E1 5b *** 372 24m Chudleigh Rocks -...
The Spider E1 5b *** 448 44m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Sarcophagus VS 4b *** 628 31m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Inkerman Groove VS 4c *** 1097 35m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Vandal and Ann HVS 5b *** 468 27m • 2 Haytor
Aviation E1 5b *** 926 36m • 2 Haytor
Haggis E1 5b *** 727 14m Haytor
Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1530 10m Hound Tor
Fruitflancase E1 5a *** 391 46m • 3 The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club Direct HVS 5a *** 778 ? • 2 The Dewerstone
Spider's Web HVS 5a *** 425 ? • 2 The Dewerstone
Leviathan VS 4c *** 1628 ? The Dewerstone
LUNDY
American Beauty HVS 5a *** 365 ? Lundy
Bridge of Sighs HVS 5a *** 19 35m Lundy
Immaculate Slab HVS 5a *** 197 ? Lundy
Formula One HVS 5a *** 302 ? Lundy
Double Diamond HVS 5b *** 417 35m Lundy
The Devil's Chimney HVS 5b ** 71 ? • 3 Lundy
Satan's Slip E1 5a *** 528 ? • 3 Lundy
Road Runner VS 4c ** 204 ? Lundy
Albion VS 4c *** 715 107m • 4 Lundy
Eclipse VS 4b *** 178 38m • 2 Lundy
Shamrock VS 4c *** 412 ? Lundy
SOMERSET
Coronation Street (WW) E1 5b *** 510 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Space Tourist 6b+ ** 328 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 1120 35m Avon Gorge...
Suspense HVS 5a *** 979 35m Avon Gorge...
Limbo E1 5b *** 690 45m Avon Gorge...
Hell Gates HVS 5a *** 844 46m • 3 Avon Gorge...
Bon Bogies HVS 5a ** 230 30m Avon Gorge (Main...
Malbogies HVS 5a *** 791 57m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
The Lich HVS 5a ** 395 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Great Central Route HVS 5a *** 468 68m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Giant's Cave Buttress VS 4c *** 1151 80m • 3 Avon Gorge...
28 e, 265 stars 51,416 3,413m 196
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