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Chris on the 1st pitch of Hell Gates
© pandalover

100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes ticklist

contributed by petecallaghan Dec/16

The 100 best routes in the South West from VS to E1

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 DORSET
The MaypoleHVS 5b ***95280mLulworth
The Long GoodbyeHVS 4c **3915mBoulder Ruckle
ElysiumE1 5b ***47538mBoulder Ruckle
AventuraHVS 4c **32430m• 2Boulder Ruckle
The Cheshire CatHVS 4c **467m• 3Boulder Ruckle
Lightning WallHVS 5a ***71738mBoulder Ruckle
Finale GrooveHVS 4c ***76035mBoulder Ruckle
BehemothHVS 5a ***18240m• 2Boulder Ruckle
JoHVS 5a ***27930m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Black SunshineHVS 4c **22838m• 2Boulder Ruckle
The Golden FleeceHVS 5a **8940m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Buzz Light YearHVS 5a **11640m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Thunder GrooveHVS 5b **17532m• 2Boulder Ruckle
GanymedeE1 5b **1636m• 2Boulder Ruckle
StrongbowE1 5b **14245m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Tatra (reclimbed after 2014 rockfall)E1 5b **9150m• 3Boulder Ruckle
The Heidelberg CreatureVS 4c **40940m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Ledgend DirectHVS 5a **34933m• 2Guillemot Ledge
The SpookE1 5b ***40533m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Quality StreetHVS 4c ***317?Cormorant Ledge
Traverse of the GodsHVS 5a ***35?• 16Subluminal and...
AstridHVS 5a **20020mSubluminal and...
 WYE VALLEY
The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***158128mShorn Cliff
No MusketeersHVS 5a ***67225mShorn Cliff
Bitter Battle TearsHVS 5a ***104823mShorn Cliff
Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***76518mShorn Cliff
Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***68932mSymonds Yat
 CULM COAST
Midnight CowboyHVS 5b ***548?Baggy Point
UndercrackerE1 5a **212?Baggy Point
Lost HorizonVS 5a ***1228?Baggy Point
Sacre CoeurE2 5c ***446?Blackchurch
Wreckers' SlabVS 4b **591115m• 3Cornakey Cliff
MatchlessE1 5b ***12650mOldwalls' Point
Tourist TrapE1 5b **231?Screda Point
LunakhodHVS 5a ***56940mLower Sharpnose...
The SmileE1 5a ***65035mLower Sharpnose...
Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***1?Compass Point (Bude)
 CORNWALL
Here to thereHVS 4c ***250m• 2Carn Gowla
Journey to IxtlanHVS 4c **71?Carn Gowla
Astral StrollE1 5b ***26888m• 4Zawn Duel and Carn...
Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **69732m• 2Bosigran
Little Brown JugVS 5a ***204466m• 3Bosigran
Anvil ChorusVS 4c ***141354m• 5Bosigran
Suicide WallE1 5c ***95178m• 5Bosigran
NamelessVS 4c ***74158m• 3Bosigran
SaxonHVS 5a ***68750mKenidjack Cliffs
Saxon DirectHVS 5a ***11046mKenidjack Cliffs
Rock DancerE1 5b ***40346mKenidjack Cliffs
Edge ClimbHVS 5a 2036m• 2Carn Barra
Dolphin CracksHVS 5a **29128m• 2Sennen
DioceseVS 5a ***77256m• 4Chair Ladder
Bishop's ArĂȘteHVS 5a **5554m• 3Chair Ladder
Bishop's RibE1 5b ***58753m• 3Chair Ladder
KittiwakeHVS 5a **10860m• 2Chair Ladder
South Face DirectVS 4c ***98559m• 4Chair Ladder
SaskiaHVS 5a **2818mVessacks West
Sensible ShoesVS 4c ***11940mRobin's Rocks
Martell SlabVS 4c ***11743m• 3Tater-du
 TORBAY
MoonrakerHVS 5a ***56776m• 3Berry Head - The...
BloodE1 5b **15420mBerry Head -...
CrinoidE2 5c ***32627mTelegraph Hole
Liaison with LeninHVS 5a **17724mTelegraph Hole
Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***50146m• 3Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b ***26741m• 2Daddyhole Main Cliff
 DARTMOOR
NimrodHVS 5a **2330mChudleigh Rocks -...
Great WesternVS 5a ***55743m• 4Chudleigh Rocks -...
OesophagusE1 5b ***35024mChudleigh Rocks -...
The SpiderE1 5b ***41844m• 2Chudleigh Rocks -...
SarcophagusVS 4b ***59731m• 3Chudleigh Rocks -...
Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***99535mChudleigh Rocks -...
Vandal and AnnHVS 5b ***45427m• 2Haytor
AviationE1 5b ***85936m• 2Haytor
HaggisE1 5b ***69314mHaytor
Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***141810mHound Tor
FruitflancaseE1 5a ***35746m• 3The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***728?• 2The Dewerstone
Spider's WebHVS 5a ***388?• 2The Dewerstone
LeviathanVS 4c ***1496?The Dewerstone
 LUNDY
American BeautyHVS 5a ***330?Lundy
Bridge of SighsHVS 5a ***1735mLundy
Immaculate SlabHVS 5a ***181?Lundy
Formula OneHVS 5a ***295?Lundy
Double DiamondHVS 5b ***37735mLundy
The Devil's ChimneyHVS 5b **68?• 3Lundy
Satan's SlipE1 5a ***484?• 3Lundy
Road RunnerVS 4c **190?Lundy
AlbionVS 4c ***652107m• 4Lundy
EclipseVS 4b ***16238m• 2Lundy
ShamrockVS 4c ***375?Lundy
 SOMERSET
Coronation Street (WW)E1 5b ***495?Cheddar Gorge South
Space Tourist6b+ **305?Cheddar Gorge South
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘteHVS 5a **106135mAvon Gorge...
SuspenseHVS 5a ***90535mAvon Gorge...
LimboE1 5b ***64945mAvon Gorge...
Hell GatesHVS 5a ***78646m• 3Avon Gorge...
Bon BogiesHVS 5a **21530mAvon Gorge (Main...
MalbogiesHVS 5a ***73257m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
The LichHVS 5a **36127mAvon Gorge (Main...
Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***43268m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
Giant's Cave ButtressVS 4c ***104680mAvon Gorge...
26 e, 266 stars47,5733,373m• 194
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