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Time for tea, surely?
© Johnny Baker, Dec 2008

100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes ticklist

contributed by petecallaghan Dec/16

The 100 best routes in the South West from VS to E1

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 DORSET
The MaypoleHVS 5b ***94580mLulworth
The Long GoodbyeHVS 4c **3915mBoulder Ruckle
ElysiumE1 5b ***46738mBoulder Ruckle
AventuraHVS 4c **32330m• 2Boulder Ruckle
The Cheshire CatHVS 4c **467m• 3Boulder Ruckle
Lightning WallHVS 5a ***69938mBoulder Ruckle
Finale GrooveHVS 4c ***74735mBoulder Ruckle
BehemothHVS 5a ***17640m• 2Boulder Ruckle
JoHVS 5a ***27030m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Black SunshineHVS 4c **22638m• 2Boulder Ruckle
The Golden FleeceHVS 5a **8540m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Buzz Light YearHVS 5a **11540m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Thunder GrooveHVS 5b **16832m• 2Boulder Ruckle
GanymedeE1 5b **1636m• 2Boulder Ruckle
StrongbowE1 5b **14045m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Tatra (reclimbed after 2014 rockfall)E1 5b **8850m• 3Boulder Ruckle
The Heidelberg CreatureVS 4c **40640m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Ledgend DirectHVS 5a **34933m• 2Guillemot Ledge
The SpookE1 5b ***39933m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Quality StreetHVS 4c ***309?Cormorant Ledge
Traverse of the GodsHVS 5a ***33?• 16Subluminal and...
AstridHVS 5a **19820mSubluminal and...
 WYE VALLEY
The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***156228mShorn Cliff
No MusketeersHVS 5a ***66525mShorn Cliff
Bitter Battle TearsHVS 5a ***103323mShorn Cliff
Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***76218mShorn Cliff
Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***63932mSymonds Yat
 CULM COAST
Midnight CowboyHVS 5b ***540?Baggy Point
UndercrackerE1 5a **205?Baggy Point
Lost HorizonVS 5a ***1203?Baggy Point
Sacre CoeurE2 5c ***441?Blackchurch
Wreckers' SlabVS 4b **587115m• 3Cornakey Cliff
MatchlessE1 5b ***12650mOldwalls' Point
Tourist TrapE1 5b **228?Screda Point
LunakhodHVS 5a ***55740mLower Sharpnose...
The SmileE1 5a ***63835mLower Sharpnose...
Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***1?Compass Point (Bude)
 CORNWALL
Here to thereHVS 4c ***250m• 2Carn Gowla
Journey to IxtlanHVS 4c **70?Carn Gowla
Astral StrollE1 5b ***265?• 4Zawn Duel and Carn...
Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **692?Bosigran
Little Brown JugVS 5a ***201665m• 3Bosigran
Anvil ChorusVS 4c ***139260m• 4Bosigran
Suicide WallE1 5c ***941?Bosigran
NamelessVS 4c ***727?Bosigran
SaxonHVS 5a ***677?Carn Kenidjack...
Saxon DirectHVS 5a ***108?Carn Kenidjack...
Rock DancerE1 5b ***40046mCarn Kenidjack...
Edge Climb (Upper Tier)HVS 5a ***2042m• 3Carn Barra
Dolphin CracksHVS 5a **288?Sennen
DioceseVS 5a ***765?Chair Ladder
Bishop's AreteHVS 5a **53?Chair Ladder
Bishop's RibE1 5b ***581?Chair Ladder
KittiwakeHVS 5a **106?Chair Ladder
South Face DirectVS 4c ***974?Chair Ladder
SaskiaHVS 5a ***6?Vessacks
Sensible ShoesVS 4c ***118?Robins Rocks
Martell SlabVS 4c ***115?Tater-du
 TORBAY
MoonrakerHVS 5a ***55975m• 3Berry Head (The Old...
BloodE1 5b **15317mBerry Head...
CrinoidE2 5c ***32227mParsons Hole (aka...
Liaison With LeninHVS 5a **171?Parsons Hole (aka...
Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***49340m• 3Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b ***260?Daddyhole Main Cliff
 DARTMOOR
NimrodHVS 5a **2330mChudleigh Rocks...
Great WesternVS 5a ***600?• 4Chudleigh Rocks
OesophagusE1 5b ***392?Chudleigh Rocks
The SpiderE1 5b ***411?• 2Chudleigh Rocks
SarcophagusVS 4b ***592?• 3Chudleigh Rocks
Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***97336mChudleigh Rocks
Vandal and AnnHVS 5b ***453?Haytor (aka Hay...
AviationE1 5b ***85980m• 2Haytor (aka Hay...
HaggisE1 5b ***69215mHaytor (aka Hay...
Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***139110mHound Tor
FruitflancaseE1 5a ***34846m• 3The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***713?• 2The Dewerstone
Spider's WebHVS 5a ***379?• 2The Dewerstone
LeviathanVS 4c ***1469?The Dewerstone
 LUNDY
American BeautyHVS 5a ***329?Lundy
Bridge of SighsHVS 5a ***1735mLundy
Immaculate SlabHVS 5a ***181?Lundy
Formula OneHVS 5a ***294?Lundy
Double DiamondHVS 5b ***37135mLundy
The Devil's ChimneyHVS 5b **68?• 3Lundy
Satan's SlipE1 5a ***480?• 3Lundy
Road RunnerVS 4c **187?Lundy
AlbionVS 4c ***646107m• 4Lundy
EclipseVS 4b ***16238m• 2Lundy
ShamrockVS 4c ***372?Lundy
 SOMERSET
Coronation Street (WW)E1 5b ***466?Cheddar Gorge South
Space Tourist6b+ **297?Cheddar Gorge South
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘteHVS 5a **104735mAvon Gorge...
SuspenseHVS 5a ***89335mAvon Gorge...
LimboE1 5b ***64345mAvon Gorge...
Hell GatesHVS 5a ***77146m• 3Avon Gorge...
Bon BogiesHVS 5a **21030mAvon Gorge (Main...
MalbogiesHVS 5a ***71557m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
The LichHVS 5a **35327mAvon Gorge (Main...
Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***42568m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
Giant's Cave ButtressVS 4c ***102880mAvon Gorge...
26 e, 270 stars46,9132,423m• 171