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Climber on the Flying Buttress, Lundy
Glyn Davidson, Aug 2009
© Mike Doyle

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) ticklist

contributed by duncan Sep/19

The shock of the new. When published it was the first time Pentire Head, Tintagel or Carn Gowla had appeared in a widely available guidebook. It still works as a fine selection of middle-grade routes, though some of the Cheddar and Torbay choices in might raise an eyebrow in the 21st century.

Morning Glory (Cheddar), Easter Egg (Swanage), Crimtyphon and Caravanserai (Compass Point), Spacewalk (Lundy), and Yankee Doodle (Land's End) have changed significantly or disappeared completely.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 AVON GORGE
The Earl of PerthE1 5b ***36546m• 2Avon Gorge...
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘteHVS 5a **97035mAvon Gorge...
Giant's Cave ButtressVS 4c ***94580mAvon Gorge...
Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***39968m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
Central RibVS 4b *31661m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
The ArĂȘteVD 4a **120840m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct RouteS 4a *69727mAvon Gorge (Main...
SinisterHS 4b **87552m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Mike's MistakeE1 5b **25753m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall TraverseHVS 5a **16147m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Dawn WalkS 4a *31865m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall DirectE2 5c **8060m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Lich GatesE2 5c ***15354m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
MalbogiesHVS 5a ***65957m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
The PreterE2 5b ***10677m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Krapp's Last TapeE3 5b ***12335mAvon Gorge (Main...
Think PinkE3 6a ***12369m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Bon BogiesHVS 5a **19530mAvon Gorge (Main...
The LichHVS 5a **32327mAvon Gorge (Main...
NightmareS 4a **112650m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
Last SlipE3 5c ***8840m• 2Avon Gorge (Sea...
MorpheusHVD **133167m• 4Avon Gorge (Sea...
Yellow EdgeE3 5c ***24972m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
Unknown WallVS 4c **43555m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
The BlikE3 5b **7450mAvon Gorge (Sea...
 BREAN DOWN
Pandora's BoxVS 4c *100?Brean Down
Cyclops SlabHVS 4c **54?Brean Down
Great CornerE2 5a *22?Brean Down
 CHEDDAR
Ready Steady GoE1 450mCheddar Gorge South
ConsolationE1 5b **44?Cheddar Gorge South
TemptationHS 4b 63?Cheddar Gorge South
BrainbiterE2 5b ***29?• 2Cheddar Gorge South
DoomwatchE1 5b 5?Cheddar Gorge South
UtopiaHVS 4c **67?• 3Cheddar Gorge South
NirvanaE2 5b *2?Cheddar Gorge South
Burma RoadE2 5c *24?Cheddar Gorge South
Mourning GloryVS 21?Cheddar Gorge South
Crow (WW)E3 5c/6a ***47?Cheddar Gorge South
SceptreVS 4c 43?Cheddar Gorge South
Coronation Street (WW)E1 5b ***450?Cheddar Gorge South
The Twilight of ImperialismE2 5b **84?Cheddar Gorge South
Eat a PeachHVS 5a *13?Cheddar Gorge South
ThorHVS 5b **64?Cheddar Gorge South
Knight's Climb (WW)D 13652m• 3Cheddar Gorge South
 SWANAGE
MarsE2 5b ***11625m• 2Subluminal and...
MelpomeneE4 5c ***2430mSubluminal and...
StrophanthinHVS 5a 2545m• 2Boulder Ruckle
ElysiumE1 5b ***43238mBoulder Ruckle
Lightning WallHVS 5a ***65338mBoulder Ruckle
Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds comboVS 4c 1135m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)VS 5a ***24146m• 3Boulder Ruckle
Finale GrooveHVS 4c ***83035mBoulder Ruckle
Wall StreetHS 4b ***38132m• 2Cormorant Ledge
Quality StreetHVS 4c ***277?Cormorant Ledge
Ledgend DirectHVS 5a **31933m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Tensor IIVS 5a ***77335m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Zo-ZoVS 4b *22640m• 2Guillemot Ledge
WarlordE4 6a ***5845m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Tudor RoseE2 5b ***154?Guillemot Ledge
 TORBAY
Love Not WarS *265m• 2Babbacombe
SafariHVS 5a **1696m• 4Long Quarry Point
Black IceE3 5c ***12362mLong Quarry Point
Ruby in the DustVS 4c *4960m• 2Long Quarry Point
Gilded TurdHVS 4c/5a *473m• 4Long Quarry Point
Steppenwolf DirectE2 5c *270m• 3Long Quarry Point
Incubus DirectE3 5c, 5b *1143m• 2Sanctuary Wall
SacrosanctHVS 5a ***76?Sanctuary Wall
The MitreE3 6b ***3518mAnstey's Cove
GargantuaE1 5b ***117?Daddyhole Main Cliff
Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***46240m• 3Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b ***236?Daddyhole Main Cliff
TritonVS 5a *231?Daddyhole Main Cliff
The PearlHS 4a *50?Daddyhole Main Cliff
The WatchtowerXS 5b ***113?London Bridge
MoonrakerHVS 5a ***49375m• 3Berry Head (The Old...
DreadnoughtE3 5c ***11280m• 3Berry Head (The Old...
Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **5363mBerry Head (The Old...
YardarmE2 5b **2245mBerry Head (The Old...
Magical Mystery Tour FullE1 5b ***112?Berry Head (The Old...
Rainbow BridgeE4 6b ***327?Berry Head (The Old...
Yellow RurtiesE1 5a *960m• 2Berry Head Quarry
ParanoidE1 5b **650m• 2Berry Head Quarry
Quality StreetVS 4c **4380mBerry Head Quarry
 CHUDLEIGH ROCKS
GagoolE1 5b **194?• 2Chudleigh Rocks
SarcophagusVS 4b ***547?• 3Chudleigh Rocks
Barn Owl CrackHVD **602?Chudleigh Rocks
Machete WallE2 5c **273?Chudleigh Rocks
WogsHVD ***1027?• 3Chudleigh Rocks
Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***89336mChudleigh Rocks
Never On SundayHS 4b **587?• 2Chudleigh Rocks
The SpiderE1 5b ***372?• 2Chudleigh Rocks
Great WesternVS 5a ***493?• 4Chudleigh Rocks
The EquationE3 6a **4?Chudleigh Rocks
PlexusVS 4b *4230mChudleigh Rocks...
NexusS 4a ***7630mChudleigh Rocks...
NimrodHVS 5a **2230mChudleigh Rocks...
 HAYTOR AND LOW MAN
CanisVS 4c *159?Haytor (aka Hay...
Vandal and AnnHVS 5b ***421?Haytor (aka Hay...
Raven GullyS **1182?• 3Haytor (aka Hay...
InterrogationE3 6a ***17035m• 2Haytor (aka Hay...
AviationE1 5b ***77580m• 2Haytor (aka Hay...
 THE DEWERSTONE
Pinnacle ButtressVD **698?The Dewerstone
Mucky GullyD **1406?The Dewerstone
Colonel's AreteVD **1302?• 4The Dewerstone
Central GrooveHS 4b ***2457?• 2The Dewerstone
FruitflancaseE1 5a ***30746m• 3The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***652?• 2The Dewerstone
Route BHVD **894?The Dewerstone
Needle AreteVD **895?• 3The Dewerstone
 BAGGY POINT
BenS 4a ***1114?Baggy Point
KinkybootsVS 4c *723?Baggy Point
Midnight CowboyHVS 5b ***507?Baggy Point
Pink VoidVS 4c *77?Baggy Point
UndercrackerE1 5a **184?Baggy Point
UrizenVS 4c *450?Baggy Point
Shangri-LaS 4a ***102045mBaggy Point
Scrattling CrackVD **357?Baggy Point
 BLACKCHURCH
The AlmightyE1 5a *9?Blackchurch
Savage GodE4 5c **874mBlackchurch
The VergerE1 5a *32?Blackchurch
The ArchtempterE3 5b **26?Blackchurch
Sacre CoeurE2 5c ***397?Blackchurch
 CORNAKEY CLIFF
Wreckers' SlabVS 4b **548115m• 3Cornakey Cliff
 LOWER SHARPNOSE POINT
MasconE1 5a **219?Lower Sharpnose...
ClawtrackHVS 4c *13840mLower Sharpnose...
LunakhodHVS 5a ***50140mLower Sharpnose...
 COMPASS POINT
TydominHVS 4c **192?Compass Point (Bude)
CrimtyphonE2 5c 21330mCompass Point (Bude)
CaravanseraiHVS 5a 172?Compass Point (Bude)
 FOCAL BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Ulysses FactorHVS 5a *75?Lundy
Golden GateE4 6a ***13?Lundy
 WEIRD WALL (LUNDY)
ApsaraHVS 4c 1?Lundy
WodwoE2 5b *2?Lundy
NavigatorE3 5c **-?Lundy
 OLD LIGHT CLIFF (LUNDY)
AlbacoreHVS 5a **70?Lundy
SamboHVS 5a *4?• 4Lundy
 ALPINE BUTTRESS AREA (LUNDY)
Wolfman JackE3 5c ***135?• 2Lundy
 FLYING BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Diamond SolitaireVS 4c **460?• 2Lundy
 DEVIL'S CHIMNEY CLIFF (LUNDY)
SpacewalkE3 5b 1090m• 3Lundy
The Promised LandE3 6a ***43?Lundy
 DEEP ZAWN (LUNDY)
QuatermassE2 5c ***68?Lundy
AntiworldsE5 6a ***16?• 3Lundy
 EGYPTIAN SLABS
Immaculate SlabHVS 5a ***177?Lundy
 GRAND FALLS ZAWN
American BeautyHVS 5a ***314?Lundy
 THE DEVIL'S SLIDE (LUNDY)
The Devil's SlideHS 4a ***1068117m• 5Lundy
AlbionVS 4c ***627107m• 4Lundy
 FLUTED FACE (LUNDY)
PerformanceE1 5b **25?Lundy
Magic FluteHVS 5a 12?Lundy
 ARCH ZAWN (LUNDY)
HeadlineE1 5b ***90?• 2Lundy
Stop PressE2 5c **30?• 2Lundy
 TINTAGEL HEAD
Il DuceE5 6a ***48?Tintagel Head
 DOYDEN POINT
CapriceVS 4c **100?Doyden Point
LotusE1 5b ***104?Doyden Point
 PENTIRE POINT
EroicaE4 6a ***214?Pentire Point
Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***130?Pentire Point
 CARN GOWLA
AmericaE4 5c ***31?Carn Gowla
MausoleumE2 5b **9?Carn Gowla
Happy Hunting GroundHVS 5a *4?Carn Gowla
DemeraraE1 5a *15?Carn Gowla
MercuryE2 5b ***104?Carn Gowla
Journey to IxtlanHVS 4c **67?Carn Gowla
 CHEESEWRING QUARRY
Simanon DirectHVS 4c **123?Cheesewring Quarry
Eyefull TowerE2 6a ***59?Cheesewring Quarry
Traitor's GateHS 4b *54?Cheesewring Quarry
 THE DEVIL'S JUMP
South East ClimbVD *8325mDevil's Jump
 BOSIGAN
Alison RibD ***2764?Bosigran
Ledge ClimbHVD ***1161?Bosigran
Little Brown JugVS 5a ***187565m• 3Bosigran
DoorpostHS 4b ***275355m• 3Bosigran
Bow WallE2 5b ***486?Bosigran
Suicide WallE1 5c ***871?Bosigran
Autumn Flakes/NamelessVS 4c **10260m• 3Bosigran
DingVS 4c **617?Bosigran
Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **640?Bosigran
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando RidgeVD ***2412200m• 8Bosigran Ridge Area
The Variety ShowHVS 5a **174?Great Zawn
Green Cormorant FaceE2 5c **64?Great Zawn
Dream LiberatorE3 6a ***109?Great Zawn
Desolation RowE2 5b **103?Great Zawn
 GURNARD'S HEAD
Right AngleHS 4b ***691?Gurnard's Head
BehemothE2 5c **54?Gurnard's Head
 CARN KENIDJACK
Gneiss GnomeHS 4a *168?Carn Kenidjack...
SaxonHVS 5a ***608?Carn Kenidjack...
 CHAIR LADDER
PegasusHS 4b ***508?Chair Ladder
South Face DirectVS 4c ***899?Chair Ladder
Pendulum ChimneyS 4b ***698?Chair Ladder
AerialVS 4c **208?Chair Ladder
Flannel AvenueHS 4b ***296?Chair Ladder
DioceseVS 5a ***718?Chair Ladder
Bishop's RibE1 5b ***535?Chair Ladder
Terrier's ToothHS 4b ***28850m• 2Chair Ladder
 LAND'S END
Cormorants BillE1 5b **41?Lands End
Johnstone's RouteS 4a *19?Lands End
World's EndE1 5a *3025mLands End
Zawn Face RouteHVS 4c *23?Lands End
Yankee DoodleE2 5b **22?Lands End
 SENNEN
Double OverhangVS 4c **876?Sennen
StaircaseD **1227?Sennen
Corner ClimbVD **1459?Sennen
Demo RouteHS 4b ***272325m• 2Sennen
Zig ZagHVS 5a **433?Sennen
176 e, 427 stars74,4494,326m• 324