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Ben finding his way up the crack
© Hinchrn, Jun 2013

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) ticklist

contributed by duncan Sep/19

The shock of the new. When published it was the first time Pentire Head, Tintagel or Carn Gowla had appeared in a widely available guidebook. It still works as a fine selection of middle-grade routes, though some of the Cheddar and Torbay choices in might raise an eyebrow in the 21st century.

Morning Glory (Cheddar), Easter Egg (Swanage), Crimtyphon and Caravanserai (Compass Point), Spacewalk (Lundy), and Yankee Doodle (Land's End) have changed significantly or disappeared completely.

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 AVON GORGE
The Earl of PerthE1 5b ***40846m• 2Avon Gorge...
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘteHVS 5a **106235mAvon Gorge...
Giant's Cave ButtressVS 4c ***104880mAvon Gorge...
Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***43268m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
Central RibVS 4b *34661m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
The ArĂȘteVD 4a **138740m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct RouteS 4a *81527mAvon Gorge (Main...
SinisterHS 4b **98352m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Mike's MistakeE1 5b **27853m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall TraverseHVS 5a **19247m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Dawn WalkS 4a *33865m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall DirectE2 5c **9160m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Lich GatesE2 5c ***17054m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
MalbogiesHVS 5a ***73357m• 2Avon Gorge (Main...
The PreterE2 5b ***11277m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Krapp's Last TapeE3 5b ***14035mAvon Gorge (Main...
Think PinkE3 6a ***13969m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Bon BogiesHVS 5a **21530mAvon Gorge (Main...
The LichHVS 5a **36127mAvon Gorge (Main...
NightmareS 4a **124650m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
Last SlipE3 5c ***9640m• 2Avon Gorge (Sea...
MorpheusHVD **146967m• 4Avon Gorge (Sea...
Yellow EdgeE3 5c ***27072m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
Unknown WallVS 4c **46655m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
The BlikE3 5b **7750mAvon Gorge (Sea...
 BREAN DOWN
Pandora's BoxVS 4c *110?Brean Down
Cyclops SlabHVS 4c **58?Brean Down
Great CornerE2 5a *23?Brean Down
 CHEDDAR
Ready Steady GoE1 450mCheddar Gorge South
ConsolationE1 5b **45?Cheddar Gorge South
TemptationHS 4b 67?Cheddar Gorge South
BrainbiterE2 5b ***31?• 2Cheddar Gorge South
DoomwatchE1 5b 5?Cheddar Gorge South
UtopiaHVS 4c **74?• 3Cheddar Gorge South
NirvanaE2 5b *2?Cheddar Gorge South
Burma RoadE2 5c *24?Cheddar Gorge South
Mourning GloryVS 22?Cheddar Gorge South
Crow (WW)E3 5c ***50?Cheddar Gorge South
SceptreVS 4c 44?Cheddar Gorge South
Coronation Street (WW)E1 5b ***499?Cheddar Gorge South
The Twilight of ImperialismE2 5b **85?Cheddar Gorge South
Eat a PeachHVS 5a *13?Cheddar Gorge South
ThorHVS 5b **69?Cheddar Gorge South
Knight's Climb (WW)D 14752m• 3Cheddar Gorge South
 SWANAGE
MarsE2 5b ***12825m• 2Subluminal and...
MelpomeneE4 5c ***2630mSubluminal and...
StrophanthinHVS 5a 2645m• 2Boulder Ruckle
ElysiumE1 5b ***47538mBoulder Ruckle
Lightning WallHVS 5a ***71738mBoulder Ruckle
Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds CombinationVS 4c 1135m• 2Boulder Ruckle
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)VS 5a ***25146m• 3Boulder Ruckle
Finale GrooveHVS 4c ***76035mBoulder Ruckle
Wall StreetHS 4b ***43432m• 2Cormorant Ledge
Quality StreetHVS 4c ***317?Cormorant Ledge
Ledgend DirectHVS 5a **35133m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Tensor IIVS 5a ***85335m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Zo-ZoVS 4b *24140m• 2Guillemot Ledge
WarlordE4 6a ***6445m• 2Guillemot Ledge
Tudor RoseE2 5b ***174?Guillemot Ledge
 TORBAY
Love Not WarS *365m• 2Babbacombe Crags
SafariHVS 5b **1696m• 4Long Quarry Point
Black IceE3 5c ***14553m• 2Long Quarry Point
Ruby in the DustVS 4c *5660m• 2Long Quarry Point
The Gilded TurdHVS 4c 673m• 4Long Quarry Point
Steppenwolf DirectE2 5c *270m• 3Long Quarry Point
Incubus DirectE3 5c *1243m• 2Sanctuary Wall
SacrosanctE1 5a **8270m• 2Sanctuary Wall
The MitreE3 6b ***3925mAnstey's Cove
GargantuaE1 5b ***13340m• 3Daddyhole Main Cliff
Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***50046m• 3Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b ***26641m• 2Daddyhole Main Cliff
TritonVS 5a *26346m• 2Daddyhole Main Cliff
The PearlHS 4b 5163m• 2Daddyhole Main Cliff
The Watchtower Part II6c+ S1 ***113130mLondon Bridge
MoonrakerHVS 5a ***56776m• 3Berry Head - The...
DreadnoughtE3 5c ***12979m• 3Berry Head - The...
Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **6359m• 3Berry Head - The...
YardarmE2 5b **2557m• 2Berry Head - The...
Magical Mystery TourE1 5b ***691335mBerry Head - The...
Rainbow BridgeE4 6b ***365280mBerry Head - The...
Yellow RurtiesE1 5a *1160m• 2Berry Head Quarry
ParanoidE1 5b *645mBerry Head Quarry
Quality StreetVS 4c **4685m• 4Berry Head Quarry
 CHUDLEIGH ROCKS
GagoolE1 5b **21333m• 2Chudleigh Rocks -...
SarcophagusVS 4b ***59931m• 3Chudleigh Rocks -...
Barn Owl CrackHVD **640?Chudleigh Rocks -...
Machete WallE2 5c **33227mChudleigh Rocks -...
Jollies RouteHVD ***111740m• 3Chudleigh Rocks -...
Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***99535mChudleigh Rocks -...
Never On SundayHS 4b **66350m• 2Chudleigh Rocks -...
The SpiderE1 5b ***41844m• 2Chudleigh Rocks -...
Great WesternVS 5a ***55743m• 4Chudleigh Rocks -...
The EquationE3 6a **569m• 3Chudleigh Rocks -...
PlexusVS 4b **4530mChudleigh Rocks -...
NexusS 4a **8530mChudleigh Rocks -...
NimrodHVS 5a **2330mChudleigh Rocks -...
 HAYTOR AND LOW MAN
CanisVS 4c *16833mHaytor
Vandal and AnnHVS 5b ***45427m• 2Haytor
Raven GullyS **127427m• 3Haytor
InterrogationE3 6a ***20535mHaytor
AviationE1 5b ***85936m• 2Haytor
 THE DEWERSTONE
Pinnacle ButtressVD **774?The Dewerstone
Mucky GullyD **1527?The Dewerstone
Colonel's AreteVD **1443?• 4The Dewerstone
Central GrooveHS 4b ***2691?• 2The Dewerstone
FruitflancaseE1 5a ***35746m• 3The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***728?• 2The Dewerstone
Route BHVD **1011?The Dewerstone
Needle AreteVD **998?• 3The Dewerstone
 BAGGY POINT
BenS 4a ***1214?Baggy Point
KinkybootsVS 4c *784?• 2Baggy Point
Midnight CowboyHVS 5b ***548?Baggy Point
Pink VoidVS 4c *82?Baggy Point
UndercrackerE1 5a **212?Baggy Point
UrizenVS 4c *503?Baggy Point
Shangri-LaS 4a ***116945mBaggy Point
Scrattling CrackVD **395?Baggy Point
 BLACKCHURCH
The AlmightyE1 5a *9?Blackchurch
Savage GodE4 5c **874mBlackchurch
The VergerE1 5a *32?Blackchurch
The ArchtempterE3 5b **31?Blackchurch
Sacre CoeurE2 5c ***446?Blackchurch
 CORNAKEY CLIFF
Wreckers' SlabVS 4b **592115m• 3Cornakey Cliff
 LOWER SHARPNOSE POINT
MasconE1 5a **238?Lower Sharpnose...
ClawtrackHVS 4c *15140mLower Sharpnose...
LunakhodHVS 5a ***56940mLower Sharpnose...
 COMPASS POINT
TydominHVS 4c **208?Compass Point (Bude)
CrimtyphonE2 5c 23330mCompass Point (Bude)
CaravanseraiHVS 5a 178?Compass Point (Bude)
 FOCAL BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Ulysses FactorHVS 5a *78?Lundy
Golden GateE4 6a ***13?Lundy
 WEIRD WALL (LUNDY)
ApsaraHVS 4c 1?Lundy
WodwoE2 5b *3?Lundy
NavigatorE3 5c **-?Lundy
 OLD LIGHT CLIFF (LUNDY)
AlbacoreHVS 5a **71?Lundy
SamboHVS 5a *4?• 4Lundy
 ALPINE BUTTRESS AREA (LUNDY)
Wolfman JackE3 5c ***133?• 2Lundy
 FLYING BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Diamond SolitaireVS 4c **48040m• 2Lundy
 DEVIL'S CHIMNEY CLIFF (LUNDY)
SpacewalkE3 5b 1190m• 3Lundy
The Promised LandE3 6a ***37?Lundy
 DEEP ZAWN (LUNDY)
QuatermassE2 5c ***74?Lundy
AntiworldsE5 6a ***17?• 3Lundy
 EGYPTIAN SLABS
Immaculate SlabHVS 5a ***181?Lundy
 GRAND FALLS ZAWN
American BeautyHVS 5a ***330?Lundy
 THE DEVIL'S SLIDE (LUNDY)
The Devil's SlideHS 4a ***1129117m• 5Lundy
AlbionVS 4c ***652107m• 4Lundy
 FLUTED FACE (LUNDY)
PerformanceE1 5b **26?Lundy
Magic FluteHVS 5a 13?Lundy
 ARCH ZAWN (LUNDY)
HeadlineE1 5b ***93?• 2Lundy
Stop PressE2 5c **30?• 2Lundy
 TINTAGEL HEAD
Il DuceE5 6a ***44?Tintagel Head
 DOYDEN POINT
CapriceVS 4c **108?Doyden Point
LotusE1 5b ***119?Doyden Point
 PENTIRE POINT
EroicaE4 6a ***221?Pentire Point
Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***130?Pentire Point
 CARN GOWLA
AmericaE4 5c ***35?Carn Gowla
MausoleumE2 5b **11?Carn Gowla
Happy Hunting GroundHVS 5a *4?Carn Gowla
DemeraraE1 5a *15?Carn Gowla
MercuryE2 5b ***114?Carn Gowla
Journey to IxtlanHVS 4c **71?Carn Gowla
 CHEESEWRING QUARRY
Simanon DirectHVS 4c **134?Cheesewring Quarry
Eyefull TowerE2 6a ***66?Cheesewring Quarry
Traitor's GateHS 4b *59?Cheesewring Quarry
 THE DEVIL'S JUMP
South East ClimbVD *9025mDevil's Jump
 BOSIGAN
Alison RibD ***301559m• 3Bosigran
Ledge ClimbHVD ***128173m• 3Bosigran
Little Brown JugVS 5a ***204466m• 3Bosigran
DoorpostHS 4b ***299367m• 3Bosigran
Bow WallE2 5b ***53752m• 2Bosigran
Suicide WallE1 5c ***95278m• 5Bosigran
Autumn Flakes/NamelessVS 4c **11160m• 3Bosigran
DingVS 4c **68342m• 2Bosigran
Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **69832m• 2Bosigran
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando RidgeVD ***2672161m• 8Bosigran Ridge Area
The Variety ShowHVS 5a **18857m• 2Great Zawn
Green Cormorant FaceE2 5c **6750m• 3Great Zawn
The Dream/LiberatorE3 6a ***11064m• 3Great Zawn
Desolation RowE2 5b **11236mGreat Zawn
 GURNARD'S HEAD
Right AngleHS 4b ***76173m• 3Gurnard's Head
BehemothE2 5c **5643m• 3Gurnard's Head
 CARN KENIDJACK
Gneiss GnomeHS 4a *17927mKenidjack Cliffs
SaxonHVS 5a ***68750mKenidjack Cliffs
 CHAIR LADDER
PegasusHS 4b ***55570m• 3Chair Ladder
South Face DirectVS 4c ***98559m• 4Chair Ladder
Pendulum ChimneyS 4b ***77059m• 5Chair Ladder
AerialVS 4c **22147m• 3Chair Ladder
Flannel AvenueHS 4b ***31952m• 3Chair Ladder
DioceseVS 5a ***77256m• 4Chair Ladder
Bishop's RibE1 5b ***58753m• 3Chair Ladder
Terrier's ToothHS 4b ***34040m• 3Chair Ladder
 LAND'S END
The Cormorant's BillE1 5b **4728mLands End
Johnstone's RouteS 4a *2528m• 2Lands End
World's EndE1 5a *3325mLands End
Zawn Face RouteHVS 4c *2627m• 2Lands End
Yankee DoodleE2 5b **23?Lands End
 SENNEN
Double OverhangVS 4c **95518mSennen
StaircaseD **132618mSennen
Corner ClimbVD **159020mSennen
Demo RouteHS 4b ***294719m• 2Sennen
Zig ZagHVS 5a **47418mSennen
177 e, 423 stars82,1857,009m• 380
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