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Kilt Rock
© vollaard, Jan 2006

Extreme Rock ticklist

contributed by UKC Logbooks Sep/10

This list of beautiful climbs is admired even by the very best. Whether gracing old gnarlers' coffee-tables in the form of a mighty tome, lying as ragged paper printouts in young aspirants’ bookshelves, or in this electronic format illuminating your computer screen; this mighty collection cannot fail to inspire.

From the Outer Hebrides to Land's End via Gneiss, Gabbro, Lavas, Schists, Granite, Limestone, Slate, Dolerite, Quartzite, Culm and, of course, Grit; this assortment of routes revels in the variation of British rock climbing. High mountain crags and tidal sea cliffs, traditional and sport, 10m outcrops and 300m buttresses, bustling quarries and serene isolation; this list will take you through it all.

No one individual has climbed all of these routes. Some of the climbs have almost mythical statures and success on just one would, for many, be a career defining goal. Success on all would require not just great skill but a keen taste for adventure. Any completer would deserve great respect indeed. But who will claim the ultimate prize? To complete the whole lot without even one fall, totally free, completely onsight.

This list is taken from the book Extreme Rock (1987) edited by Ken Wilson & Bernard Newman.

Notes:

Megaton and Thor - No longer climbable: These were destroyed by rockfall many years ago.
Controlled Burning - Suffered a rockfall in 2004 but it still climbable (albeit very carefully). There's more more rockfall expected at some point so probably best to stay off this one.
The Giant - No longer climbable: The top pitch has collapsed in 2006.
Return of the Natives - No longer climbable: After a rockfall sometime after 2011, it now lies in the sea.
Cougar - No longer climbable: A major rockfall removed the third pitch of this classic in August 2012.

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Hidden 87% 29 Dec, 2020
2 Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 77% 18 Aug, 2020
3 Glenn Sutcliffe 75% 11 Oct, 2013
4 keefe 74% 23 Nov, 2015
5 Dave Musgrove Jnr 68% 24 Sep
6 donie 67% 27 Aug
7 Hidden 64% 11 Jan
8 Mike Owen 60% 12 Mar, 2012
9 Hidden 60% 3 Jul, 2016
10 Hidden 58% 9 Apr

Map of routes in this ticklist

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Stairway to Heaven E5 6a *** 25 ? Bla Bheinn
Thor E3 5c ** 2 240m • 5 Sgurr a' Mhadaidh
Megaton E4 5c ** 2 250m • 6 Sgurr a' Mhadaidh
Supercharger E3 5c ** 54 ? Neist
Grey Panther E1 5b *** 430 45m Kilt Rock, Staffin
Internationale E3 5b ** 90 45m Kilt Rock, Staffin
Titan's Wall E3 5c *** 72 ? Ben Nevis
King Kong E2 5c *** 76 ? Ben Nevis
Caligula E3 5c ** 13 110m • 4 Ben Nevis
Agrippa E5 6b *** 9 ? Ben Nevis
The Fuhrer E4 5c *** 92 ? Creag Dubh...
Acapulco E4 6a *** 34 ? Creag Dubh...
Edgehog E3 5c *** 183 ? Steall Meadows...
Going for Gold E4 6a *** 4 15m Steall Meadows...
Just a Little Tease E5 6b *** 27 25m Whale Rock, Glen...
Unicorn (Summer) E1 5a *** 165 ? Bidean nam Bian -...
Scansor (Summer) E2 5b * 29 ? Bidean nam Bian -...
Kingpin E3 6a *** 18 ? Bidean nam Bian
Freak Out E4 6a *** 104 ? Aonach Dubh
Spacewalk E5 6b ** 36 50m • 2 Aonach Dubh
The Clearances E4 6a *** 31 ? Aonach Dubh
The Pinch Direct E3 5c *** 42 ? Beinn Trilleachan...
The Risk Business E5 6a *** 40 120m • 4 Creag a' Bhancair
Romantic Reality E7 6b *** 1 ? Creag a' Bhancair
Steeple E2 5c *** 249 250m Shelterstone Crag
Haystack E3 5c *** 107 ? Shelterstone Crag
The Pin E2 5b *** 92 70m • 2 Shelterstone Crag
The Spire E4 6a ** 30 160m Shelterstone Crag
The Run of the Arrow E6 6b *** 6 90m Shelterstone Crag
The Giant (Summer) E3 6a ** 17 ? Broad Cairn - Creag...
Cougar E3 5c *** 44 ? Broad Cairn - Creag...
The Naked Ape E5 6b *** 12 ? Broad Cairn - Creag...
Flodden E6 6b *** 5 ? Broad Cairn - Creag...
Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 38 ? Dumbarton Rock
Club Crack E2 5c ** 57 ? The Cobbler
Wild Country E6 6b *** 1 50m The Cobbler
Rat Race E4 6a *** 167 ? • 2 Dunkeld, Cave Crag
The Big Lick E4 5c *** 8 180m • 6 Tamnasbhal
Stone E5 6a *** 11 200m • 6 Sròn Uladail...
Grand Alliance E4 6a *** 212 ? Black Crag...
Bitter Oasis E4 5c *** 145 ? Goat Crag,...
Footless Crow E6 6c *** 28 ? Goat Crag,...
The Gates of Delirium E4 6a *** 73 ? • 2 Raven Crag,...
The Lord of the Rings E2 5c *** 35 340m • 14 Scafell East...
Saxon E2 5c *** 222 ? Scafell Crag
The Nazgul E3 5c *** 112 ? Scafell Crag
Lost Horizons E4 6b *** 48 ? Scafell East...
Shere Khan E5 6a *** 40 ? Scafell East...
Equus E2 5c *** 225 ? Gimmer Crag
Eastern Hammer E3 6a *** 170 ? Gimmer Crag
Fine Time E5 6b ** 39 ? Raven Crag...
R 'n' S Special E6 6a *** 40 ? Raven Crag...
Trilogy E5 6a *** 125 31m Raven Crag...
Cruel Sister E3 5c *** 226 ? • 3 Pavey Ark
Fallen Angel E4 6a *** 69 ? Pavey Ark
Side Walk E2 5b ** 153 ? Dow Crag
The Cumbrian E5 6b *** 96 80m • 4 Esk Buttress (Dow...
Holocaust E4 6a *** 144 ? Dow Crag
The Moon E3 5c *** 476 ? Gogarth South Stack
Winking Crack E3 5c ** 208 ? • 2 Gogarth North Stack...
The Strand E2 5b *** 1105 ? • 2 Gogarth North Stack...
Dinosaur E5 6a *** 75 ? Gogarth North Stack...
Mammoth E5 6b *** 28 88m • 3 Gogarth North Stack...
Citadel E5 6b *** 118 ? • 2 Gogarth North Stack...
Hunger E5 6a *** 79 ? Gogarth North Stack...
Positron E5 6a *** 199 62m • 3 Gogarth North Stack...
T.Rex E3 5c *** 156 ? Gogarth North Stack...
The Cad E6 6a *** 90 ? Gogarth North Stack...
The Bells! The Bells! E7 6b *** 12 ? Gogarth North Stack...
Capital Punishment E4 5c *** 136 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Suicide Wall Route 1 E2 5c *** 267 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Comes the Dervish E3 5c *** 1187 40m Vivian Quarry
The Skull E4 6a *** 150 ? Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
Lubyanka E3 5c *** 204 ? Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
The Boldest E4 5c *** 110 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
West Buttress Eliminate E3 5c *** 132 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Great Wall E4 6a *** 373 60m • 2 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
A Midsummer Night's Dream E6 6a *** 38 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Spreadeagle E4 5c * 3 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Master's Wall E7 6b * 1 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Womb Bits E5 6b *** 35 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Indian Face E9 6c *** 7 ? Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The Disillusioned Screw Machine E6 6b *** 29 31m • 2 Pen Trwyn
New Dimensions E4 6a *** 105 52m • 2 Castell y Gwynt
Great Wall E4 5c *** 185 32m Craig y Forwyn
Left Wall E2 5c *** 1567 38m Dinas Cromlech
Resurrection E4 6a *** 586 ? Dinas Cromlech
Right Wall E5 6a *** 459 ? Dinas Cromlech
Lord of the Flies E6 6a *** 108 ? Dinas Cromlech
Vulcan E4 6a *** 190 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Fingerlicker E4 6a *** 156 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Silly Arete E3 5c *** 426 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Zukator E4 6b ** 93 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Void E4 6a *** 286 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Cream E4 6a *** 401 ? • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Strawberries E7 6b *** 27 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Western Front E3 5c *** 403 13m Almscliff
The Wall of Horrors E3 6a *** 283 18m Almscliff
The Big Greeny E3 5c ** 312 14m Almscliff
Wellington Crack E4 5c *** 151 16m Ilkley (Cow and...
Milky Way E6 6b *** 18 20m Ilkley (Cow and...
Face Route E3 6a *** 178 47m • 2 Gordale Scar
Jenny Wren E5 6a * 35 60m • 4 Gordale Scar
Deliverance E5 6b *** 30 34m • 2 Gordale Scar
Cave Route Right (pre 2018) E6 6b *** 65 32m Gordale Scar
Cave Route Left (pre-2012) 7c+ 6c *** 20 32m Gordale Scar
Dogpoint (Last Dog + Pierrepoint L2 + L3 ) 7c+ *** 69 40m Gordale Scar
Main Overhang 8a ** 62 17m Malham Cove
Free and Easy 7c ** 67 20m Malham Cove
New Dawn 7c *** 322 22m Malham Cove
Central Wall E4 6a *** 143 ? Kilnsey
Deja Vu E5 6b *** 161 ? Kilnsey
Dominatrix 7c *** 267 ? Kilnsey
High Noon E4 6a *** 70 ? Caley Crags
Adrenaline Rush E5 6b *** 83 10m Caley Crags
Kingdom Come E5 6b * 21 15m Stoney Middleton
Circe E5 6b ** 68 22m Stoney Middleton
Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 252 20m Stoney Middleton
Wee Doris E4 5c *** 316 ? Stoney Middleton
Our Father E4 6b *** 138 15m Stoney Middleton
Beau Geste E7 6c *** 17 14m Froggatt Edge
Hairless Heart E5 5c *** 169 15m Froggatt Edge
Strapadictomy E5 6b *** 318 9m Froggatt Edge
London Wall E5 6a *** 195 22m Millstone Edge
White Wall E5 6b *** 131 22m Millstone Edge
Green Death E5 5c *** 61 18m Millstone Edge
Edge Lane E5 5c *** 139 18m Millstone Edge
Great Arête E5 5c *** 16 16m Millstone Edge
The Master's Edge E7 6c *** 60 18m Millstone Edge
Darius E3 5c *** 608 50m High Tor
Bastille E6 6b *** 44 37m High Tor
Castellan E5 6b *** 29 42m • 2 High Tor
Profit of Doom E4 6b *** 87 16m Curbar Edge
Linden E6 6b *** 52 23m Curbar Edge
Right Eliminate E3 5c *** 176 17m Curbar Edge
Quietus E2 5c *** 580 14m Stanage North
Old Friends E4 6a *** 211 18m Stanage North
Mortlock's Arete E4 6a *** 155 ? • 2 Chee Dale Lower
Easter Edge E1 5b ** 375 28m Dovedale
Adjudicator Wall E3 5c *** 240 40m Dovedale
The Prow (Classic) 7c *** 40 50m • 3 Raven Tor (Miller's...
Revelations 8b *** 26 15m Raven Tor (Miller's...
Fern Hill E2 5c *** 578 12m Cratcliffe Tor
Five Finger Exercise E2 5c *** 580 22m Cratcliffe Tor
Requiem E3 6a *** 101 26m • 2 Cratcliffe Tor
Star Gate E3 5c *** 257 39m Mother Carey's...
Mythical Monster E2 5c ** 183 50m • 2 Huntsman's Leap
Quiet Waters E3 6b ** 166 42m Huntsman's Leap
Witch Hunt E4 6b *** 122 45m • 2 Huntsman's Leap
Surprise Attack E2 5c *** 221 47m • 2 Mewsford Point
Daydreams E2 5b *** 191 50m • 3 Mewsford Point
Return of the Natives E3 6a ** 20 ? Mewsford Point
The Preter E2 5b *** 119 77m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Krapp's Last Tape E3 5b *** 157 35m Avon Gorge (Main...
Think Pink E3 6a *** 154 69m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Dreadnought E3 5c *** 137 79m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Caveman E6 6b *** 20 125m • 6 Berry Head - The...
Tudor Rose E2 5b *** 180 ? Guillemot Ledge
Oceanid E2 5b ** 94 50m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Warlord E4 6a *** 67 45m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Vikings E4 6a ** 35 50m • 3 Guillemot Ledge
Heart of the Sun E2 5c *** 142 ? Baggy Point
The Promised Land E3 6a *** 41 ? Lundy
Wolfman Jack E3 5c *** 145 ? • 2 Lundy
Controlled Burning E4 5c ** 55 ? Lundy
A Widespread Ocean of Fear E5 6a *** 43 ? Lundy
Il Duce E5 6a *** 47 ? Tintagel Head
Eroica E4 6a *** 226 ? Pentire Point
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 6a *** 134 ? Pentire Point
America E4 5c *** 37 ? Carn Gowla
Guernica E6 6a ** 8 ? Carn Gowla
Mastodon E3 5c *** 81 50m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Behemoth E2 5c ** 62 43m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Astral Stroll E1 5b *** 293 88m • 4 Zawn Duel and Carn...
Raven Wall E3 5c *** 167 36m Bosigran
Kafoozalem E3 6a *** 254 36m Bosigran
The Ghost E3 5b *** 204 68m • 3 Bosigran
Déjà Vu E4 5c *** 44 52m • 2 Great Zawn
The West Face E5 6b *** 33 55m • 3 Great Zawn
The Dream/Liberator E3 6a *** 119 64m • 3 Great Zawn
678 e, 504 stars 27,212 5,078m 285
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