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Paul cruising The Strand
© Chris wilson, Oct 2009

Extreme Rock ticklist

contributed by UKC Logbooks Sep/10

This list of beautiful climbs is admired even by the very best. Whether gracing old gnarlers' coffee-tables in the form of a mighty tome, lying as ragged paper printouts in young aspirants’ bookshelves, or in this electronic format illuminating your computer screen; this mighty collection cannot fail to inspire.

From the Outer Hebrides to Land's End via Gneiss, Gabbro, Lavas, Schists, Granite, Limestone, Slate, Dolerite, Quartzite, Culm and, of course, Grit; this assortment of routes revels in the variation of British rock climbing. High mountain crags and tidal sea cliffs, traditional and sport, 10m outcrops and 300m buttresses, bustling quarries and serene isolation; this list will take you through it all.

No one individual has climbed all of these routes. Some of the climbs have almost mythical statures and success on just one would, for many, be a career defining goal. Success on all would require not just great skill but a keen taste for adventure. Any completer would deserve great respect indeed. But who will claim the ultimate prize? To complete the whole lot without even one fall, totally free, completely onsight.

This list is taken from the book Extreme Rock (1987) edited by Ken Wilson & Bernard Newman.

Notes:

Megaton and Thor - No longer climbable: These were destroyed by rockfall many years ago.
Controlled Burning - Suffered a rockfall in 2004 but it still climbable (albeit very carefully). There's more more rockfall expected at some point so probably best to stay off this one.
The Giant - No longer climbable: The top pitch has collapsed in 2006.
Return of the Natives - No longer climbable: After a rockfall sometime after 2011, it now lies in the sea.
Cougar - No longer climbable: A major rockfall removed the third pitch of this classic in August 2012.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Stairway to HeavenE5 6a ***16?Bla Bheinn
ThorE3 5c **1240m• 5Sgurr a' Mhadaidh
MegatonE1 5b 1250mSgurr a' Mhadaidh
SuperchargerE3 5c **31?Neist
Grey PantherE1 5b ***31145mKilt Rock, Staffin
InternationaleE2 5b **5945mKilt Rock, Staffin
Titan's WallE3 5c ***51?Ben Nevis
King KongE2 5c ***50?Ben Nevis
CaligulaE3 5c **6110m• 4Ben Nevis
AgrippaE5 6b ***6?Ben Nevis
The FuhrerE4 5c ***78?Creag Dubh...
AcapulcoE4 6a ***30?Creag Dubh...
EdgehogE3 5c ***151?Steall Meadows...
Going for GoldE4 6a ***315mSteall Meadows...
Just a Little TeaseE5 6b ***2325mWhale Rock, Glen...
Unicorn (Summer)E1 5a ***131?Bidean nam Bian -...
Scansor (Summer)E2 5b **20?Bidean nam Bian -...
KingpinE3 6a ***14?Bidean nam Bian
Freak OutE4 6a ***92?Aonach Dubh
SpacewalkE5 6b **3550m• 2Aonach Dubh
The ClearancesE4 6a ***28?Aonach Dubh
The Pinch DirectE3 5c ***35?Beinn Trilleachan...
The Risk BusinessE5 6a ***31120m• 4Creag a' Bhancair
Romantic RealityE7 6b ***1?Creag a' Bhancair
SteepleE2 5c ***184250mShelterstone Crag
HaystackE3 5c ***72?Shelterstone Crag
The PinE2 5b ***5670m• 2Shelterstone Crag
The SpireE4 6a **17160mShelterstone Crag
The Run of the ArrowE6 6b ***490mShelterstone Crag
The Giant (Summer)E3 6a **13?Broad Cairn - Creag...
CougarE3 5c ***39?Broad Cairn - Creag...
The Naked ApeE5 6b ***11?Broad Cairn - Creag...
FloddenE6 6b ***3?Broad Cairn - Creag...
Chemin de FerE5 6a ***32?Dumbarton Rock
Club CrackE2 5c **58?The Cobbler (Ben...
Wild CountryE6 6b ***150mThe Cobbler (Ben...
Rat RaceE4 6a, 5b ***134?• 2Dunkeld, Cave Crag
The Big LickE4 5c ***6180m• 6Creag Dubh Dibadale
StoneE5 6a ***16185m• 7Sron Ulladale...
Grand AllianceE4 6a ***184?Black Crag...
Bitter OasisE4 5c ***131?Goat Crag,...
Footless CrowE5 6c ***30?Goat Crag,...
The Gates of DeleriumE4 6a ***45?• 2Raven Crag,...
The Lord of the RingsE2 5c ***24340m• 14Scafell East...
SaxonE2 5c ***176?Scafell Crag
The NazgulE3 5c **89?Scafell Crag
Lost HorizonsE4 6b ***34?Scafell East...
Shere KhanE5 6a ***31?Scafell East...
EquusE2 5c ***171?Gimmer Crag
Eastern HammerE3 6a ***132?Gimmer Crag
Fine TimeE5 6b *29?Raven Crag...
R 'n' S SpecialE5 6a **35?Raven Crag...
TrilogyE5 6a ***10831mRaven Crag...
Cruel SisterE3 5c ***188?• 3Pavey Ark
Fallen AngelE4 6a ***66?Pavey Ark
Side WalkE2 5b ***132?Dow Crag
The CumbrianE5 6b ***7380m• 4Esk Buttress (Dow...
HolocaustE4 6a ***109?Dow Crag
The MoonE3 5c ***426?Gogarth South Stack
Winking CrackE3 5c **180?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
The StrandE2 5b ***914?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
DinosaurE5 6a ***68?Gogarth North Stack...
MammothE5 6b ***2988m• 3Gogarth North Stack...
CitadelE5 6b ***102?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
HungerE5 6a ***71?Gogarth North Stack...
PositronE5 6a ***17062m• 3Gogarth North Stack...
T.RexE3 5c ***140?Gogarth North Stack...
The CadE6 6a ***87?Gogarth North Stack...
The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***6?Gogarth North Stack...
Capital PunishmentE4 5c ***121?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Suicide Wall Route 1E2 5c ***230?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Comes the DervishE3 5c ***108440mVivian Quarry
The SkullE4 6a ***129?Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
LubyankaE3 5c ***173?Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
The BoldestE4 5c ***102?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
West Buttress EliminateE3 5c ***119?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Great WallE4 6a ***32372m• 2Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
A Midsummer Night's DreamE6 6a ***39?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
SpreadeagleE4 5c *3?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Master's WallE7 6b *-?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Womb BitsE5 6b ***37?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Indian FaceE9 6c ***8?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***22?Pen Trwyn
New DimensionsE4 6a ***9037m• 2Castell y Gwynt
Great WallE4 5c ***113?Craig y Forwyn
Left WallE2 5c ***126438mDinas Cromlech
ResurrectionE4 6a ***460?Dinas Cromlech
Right WallE5 6a ***343?Dinas Cromlech
Lord of the FliesE6 6a ***88?Dinas Cromlech
VulcanE4 6a ***169?Craig Pant Ifan...
FingerlickerE4 6a ***137?Craig Pant Ifan...
Silly AreteE3 5c ***373?Craig Pant Ifan...
ZukatorE4 6b **88?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
VoidE4 6a ***243?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
CreamE4 6a ***347?• 4Craig Bwlch y Moch...
StrawberriesE7 6b ***17?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Western FrontE3 5c ***32613mAlmscliff
The Wall of HorrorsE3 6a ***23018mAlmscliff
The Big GreenyE3 5c **24514mAlmscliff
Wellington CrackE4 5c ***12116mIlkley (Cow and...
Milky WayE6 6b ***14?Ilkley (Cow and...
Face RouteE3 6a ***15247m• 2Gordale Scar
Jenny WrenE5 6a *2960m• 4Gordale Scar
DeliveranceE5 6b ***2434m• 2Gordale Scar
Cave Route RightE6 6b ***6532mGordale Scar
Cave Route Left (pre-2012 trad version)7c+ 6c ***1932mGordale Scar
Dogpoint (Last Dog then Pierrepoint over the roof to the top)7c+ ***5840mGordale Scar
Main Overhang8a **4417mMalham Cove
Free and Easy7c **5420mMalham Cove
New Dawn7c ***28622mMalham Cove
Central WallE4 6a ***129?Kilnsey
Deja VuE5 6b ***137?Kilnsey
Dominatrix7c ***198?Kilnsey
High NoonE4 6a ***67?Caley Crags
Adrenaline RushE5 6b ***6710mCaley Crags
Kingdom ComeE5 6b *1815mStoney Middleton
CirceE5 6b **6622mStoney Middleton
BitterfingersE4 6a ***21420mStoney Middleton
Wee DorisE4 5c ***262?Stoney Middleton
Our FatherE4 6b ***12915mStoney Middleton
Beau GesteE7 6c ***1314mFroggatt Edge
Hairless HeartE5 5c ***13815mFroggatt Edge
StrapadictomyE5 6b ***2659mFroggatt Edge
London WallE5 6a ***15622mMillstone Edge
White WallE5 6b ***10122mMillstone Edge
Green DeathE5 5c ***5318mMillstone Edge
Edge LaneE5 5c ***12818mMillstone Edge
Great ArĂȘteE5 5c ***1916mMillstone Edge
The Master's EdgeE7 6c ***5118mMillstone Edge
DariusE2 5c ***51850mHigh Tor
BastilleE6 6b ***3337mHigh Tor
CastellanE5 6b ***2042m• 2High Tor
Profit of DoomE4 6b ***7716mCurbar Edge
LindenE6 6b ***3923mCurbar Edge
Right EliminateE3 5c ***13917mCurbar Edge
QuietusE2 5c ***47114mStanage North
Old FriendsE4 6a ***16118mStanage North
Mortlock's AreteE4 6a ***136?• 2Chee Dale Lower
Easter IslandE1 5b **33328mDovedale
Adjudicator WallE3 5c ***19540mDovedale
The Prow (classic)8a ***4550m• 3Raven Tor (Miller's...
Revelations8b ***1915mRaven Tor (Miller's...
Fern HillE2 5c ***48112mCratcliffe Tor
Five Finger ExerciseE2 5c ***47422mCratcliffe Tor
RequiemE3 6a ***8826m• 2Cratcliffe Tor
Star GateE3 5c ***20439mMother Carey's...
Mythical MonsterE2 5c **16050m• 2Huntsman's Leap
Quiet WatersE3 6b **145?Huntsman's Leap
Witch HuntE4 6b ***10945m• 2Huntsman's Leap
Surprise AttackE1 5c ***18755m• 2Mewsford
DaydreamsE2 5b ***16055m• 3Mewsford
Return of the NativesE3 5b, 6a **19?Mewsford
The PreterE2 5b ***10377m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
Krapp's Last TapeE3 5b ***12135mAvon Gorge (Main...
Think PinkE3 6a ***11869m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
DreadnoughtE3 5c ***10680m• 3Berry Head (The Old...
CavemanE6 6b ***24125m• 6Berry Head (The Old...
Tudor RoseE2 5b ***147?Guillemot Ledge
OceanidE2 5b **6750m• 2Guillemot Ledge
WarlordE4 6a ***5745m• 2Guillemot Ledge
VikingsE4 6a **3250m• 3Guillemot Ledge
Heart of the SunE2 5c ***106?Baggy Point
The Promised LandE3 6a ***37?Lundy
Wolfman JackE3 5c ***126?• 2Lundy
Controlled BurningE4 5c **47?Lundy
A Widespread Ocean of FearE5 6a ***34?Lundy
Il DuceE5 6a ***46?Tintagel Head
EroicaE4 6a ***199?Pentire Point
Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***123?Pentire Point
AmericaE4 5c ***31?Carn Gowla
GuernicaE6 6a **7?Carn Gowla
MastodonE3 5c ***74?Gurnard's Head
BehemothE2 5c **53?Gurnard's Head
Astral StrollE1 5b ***226?• 4Zawn Duel and Carn...
Raven WallE3 5c ***135?Bosigran
KafoozalemE3 6a ***204?Bosigran
The GhostE3 5b ***166?Bosigran
Deja VuE4 5c ***37?Great Zawn
The West FaceE5 6b ***28?Great Zawn
Dream LiberatorE3 6a ***106?Great Zawn
670 e, 501 stars22,6034,457m• 269