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Out on a Limb
© Mark Collins, Sep 2015

The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) ticklist

contributed by kez1 Aug/16

Climbs to do in the UK before I leave for Yosemite. This list contains the British routes I value as the most important to me. This could be because of a climbs history, its first ascentionist, it might be a breakthrough in standards, the adventurous nature, an aesthetically pleasing line. All routes contained within this list (with one notable exception, yosemite wall in malham cove) are either trad routes,deep water solos, winter or mountaineering routes or highball boulders because sport climbing is for pussies. I have included routes I have already completed if they were of excellent quality and worthy of being on the list. I have also included some routes which I would like to aid climb e.g. london wall at millstone. If you complete this list, pat yourself on the back, you are well on the way to becoming an excellent climber. Why not try my other ticklist, 'The best the UK has to offer for beasts'.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 PEAK LIMESTONE
The ThornHVS 5a ***61948m• 2Beeston Tor
Snakes AliveVS 4c ***13324mDovedale
GeorgeE1 5b ***30638mDovedale
ConclusorHVS 5a ***36644mRavensdale
Pothole WallVS 5a ***44735m• 2Willersley Castle...
Gangue GroovesHVS 5b ***38740mWillersley Castle...
LynxHS 4b ***90846m• 2Wildcat
Golden YardstickVS 5a ***95844m• 2Wildcat
CataclysmHVS 5a ***60938m• 2Wildcat
SirplumE1 5b ***51550m• 2Chee Dale Upper
SkylightVS 4c ***52142m• 2High Tor
HighlightHVS 5a ***50045m• 2High Tor
Original RouteHVS 5a ***88335mHigh Tor
DebaucheryE1 5b ***101045m• 2High Tor
DelicatessenE2 5c ***36751m• 2High Tor
DariusE3 5c ***60550mHigh Tor
Lyme CrymeE3 5c ***22846m• 2High Tor
Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***810?• 2Stoney Middleton
Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***62520mStoney Middleton
ArmageddonE2 5c ***28728mStoney Middleton
Scoop WallE2 5c ***51425mStoney Middleton
 EASTERN GRIT
Brown's CrackHS 4b ***234912mBamford Edge
Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***258614mBamford Edge
Flying ButtressHVD 4a ***695324mStanage Popular
Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress DirectHS 4a ***371422mStanage Popular
Christmas CrackHS 4a ***644316mStanage Popular
April CrackHS 4b ***454416mStanage Popular
Inverted VVS 4b ***447022mStanage Popular
Hargreaves' OriginalVS 4c ***561418mStanage Popular
Mississippi Buttress DirectVS 4c ***435422mStanage Popular
BAW's CrawlHVS 5a ***98410mStanage Popular
QueersvilleHVS 5a ***314216mStanage Popular
Congo CornerHVS 5b ***133324mStanage Popular
The LinkE1 5b ***119722mStanage Popular
Flying Buttress DirectE1 5b ***274016mStanage Popular
The TipplerE1 5b ***116118mStanage Popular
The DanglerE2 5c ***27416mStanage Popular
Goliath's GrooveHVS 5a ***208822mStanage Plantation
The Right UnconquerableHVS 5a ***295516mStanage Plantation
The Left UnconquerableE1 5b ***241616mStanage Plantation
Millsom's MinionE1 5b ***179222mStanage Plantation
ArchangelE3 5b ***34122mStanage Plantation
Not to be Taken Awayf6C ***10806mStanage Plantation
High Neb ButtressVS 4c ***380520mStanage North
Terrazza CrackHVS 5a ***82912mStanage North
QuietusE2 5c ***57714mStanage North
Impossible SlabE3 5c ***47514mStanage North
The MallVS 4c ***260522mMillstone Edge
Great North RoadHVS 5a ***235332mMillstone Edge
Bond StreetHVS 5a ***295920mMillstone Edge
Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***231620mMillstone Edge
Technical Masterf6B ***582?Millstone Edge
Sunset SlabHVS 4b ***391014mFroggatt Edge
Tody's WallHVS 5a ***528618mFroggatt Edge
Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***364114mFroggatt Edge
ValkyrieHVS 5a ***209920m• 2Froggatt Edge
Three Pebble SlabHVS 5a ***445012mFroggatt Edge
Brown's EliminateE2 5b ***157216mFroggatt Edge
Great SlabE3 5b ***50918mFroggatt Edge
Croton OilHVS 5a ***244420mRivelin Edge
Blizzard RidgeHVS 5a ***174514mRivelin Edge
Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***258710mBurbage North
Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***365216mBurbage North
Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***209710mBurbage North
The PeapodHVS 5b ***148616mCurbar Edge
L'HorlaE1 5b ***104310mCurbar Edge
Elder CrackE2 5b ***59118mCurbar Edge
Suicide WallHVS 5b ***120730m• 2Cratcliffe Tor
Tower FaceHS 4b ***124612mWharncliffe Crags
HimmelswillenVS 4c ***126614mWharncliffe Crags
The FileVS 4c ***158310mHiggar Tor
The RaspE2 5b ***70814mHiggar Tor
Moyer's ButtressE1 5b ***76521mGardom's Edge
 WESTERN GRIT
Inverted StaircaseD ***226222m• 2Roaches Upper Tier
Right RouteVD ***304624mRoaches Upper Tier
Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***209128m• 2Roaches Upper Tier
The SlothHVS 5a ***196924mRoaches Upper Tier
Great ChimneyS 4a ***95418mHen Cloud
Central ClimbVS 4c ***110438m• 3Hen Cloud
DelstreeHVS 5a ***34818mHen Cloud
Bachelor's Left-handHVS 5b ***54624mHen Cloud
Hen Cloud EliminateHVS 5b ***39918mHen Cloud
Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 50310mRoaches Lower Tier
Via DolorosaVS 4c ***147132mRoaches Lower Tier
ValkyrieVS 4c ***294940m• 2Roaches Lower Tier
Commander EnergyE2 5c ***87612mRoaches Lower Tier
ElegyE2 5c ***53216mRoaches Lower Tier
The SwanE3 5c ***14626mRoaches Lower Tier
Three Pocket Slabf6A ***1640?Roaches Lower Tier
San MelasE3 5c ***4138mRoaches Skyline
BoomerangVD ***85316mRamshaw Rocks
NozagVS 4c ***161014mCastle Naze
Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***136812mCastle Naze
Phoenix ClimbVS 4c ***55526mShining Clough
Pisa Super DirectHVS 5a ***47320mShining Clough
The TridentE1 5b ***10620mWimberry Rocks
Freddie's FinaleHVS 5b ***13014mWimberry Rocks
 YORKSHIRE GRIT & LIMESTONE
Fairy StepsHS 4b ***417?Heptonstall
Forked Lightning CrackE2 5c ***167?Heptonstall
Tiger WallVS 4c ***279?Earl Crag
WalewskaVS 4c ***103016mIlkley (Cow and...
Fluted ColumnsHVD 3c ***341114mAlmscliff
Frankland's Green CrackVS 4c ***68418mAlmscliff
Great WesternHVS 5a ***139615mAlmscliff
Western FrontE3 5c ***39613mAlmscliff
The Wall of HorrorsE3 6a ***28118mAlmscliff
Highcliff CrackS 4b ***228?Highcliffe Nab
Eastby ButtressVD ***911?Eastby Crag
Pillar FrontE2 5b ***231?Eastby Crag
Birch Tree WallVS 4c ***146615mBrimham Rocks
Ravensheugh CrackHVS 5a ***94?Ravensheugh Crag
Baluster CrackHVS 5b ***32?Ravensheugh Crag
Russet GrooveVD ***2084?Bowden Doors
Flake CrackS 4b ***1619?Kyloe Crag (Kyloe...
The DiedreE2 5b ***163?• 2Kilnsey
Carnage Left-handE1 5b ***21657m• 3Malham Cove
CarnageE2 5b ***26042m• 2Malham Cove
Mulatto WallE3 5c ***16740m• 2Malham Cove
Yosemite Wall7a+ ***50422mMalham Cove
Face RouteE3 6a ***17647m• 2Gordale Scar
 WALES
EquinoxVS 4c **2655?Bus Stop Quarry
SolsticeHVS 5a **2153?Bus Stop Quarry
Fool's GoldE1 5c **251425mBus Stop Quarry
Gnat AttackE1 5c **127020mBus Stop Quarry
SeamstressVS 4c **3257?Serengeti
Seams the SameE1 5b **2547?Serengeti
Californian AreteE1 4c ***21846mCalifornia
Snakes and Ladders ApproachHVS 5a 973?California
Looning the TubeE1 5a ***255315mAustralia
Last Tango in ParisE2 5b ***101045mVivian Quarry
Comes the DervishE3 5c ***118740mVivian Quarry
Red and Yellow and Pink and Green, Orange and Purple and BlueE1 5a **19840mRainbow Slab Area
Bela Lugosi is DeadE1 5b **1173?Rainbow Slab Area
Pull My DaisyE2 5c ***907?Rainbow Slab Area
ColossusE3 5c ***334?Rainbow Slab Area
Brant DirectHVS 5a ***1525?Clogwyn y Grochan
Crackstone RibS 4a ***300755m• 3Carreg Wastad
Spiral StairsVD ***126884mDinas Cromlech
Flying ButtressVD ***256787mDinas Cromlech
Cemetery GatesE1 5b ***225552m• 2Dinas Cromlech
Cenotaph CornerE1 5c ***1790?Dinas Cromlech
Left WallE2 5c ***153138mDinas Cromlech
The CracksHS 4c ***192590m• 6Dinas Mot
Direct RouteVS 5b ***147174m• 4Dinas Mot
DiagonalHVS 5a ***127978m• 4Dinas Mot
Super DirectE1 5b ***108475m• 3Dinas Mot
Gambit ClimbS ***46699m• 5Clogwyn y Ddysgl
Main WallHS 4b ***1325140m• 6Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
The GroovesE1 5b ***622116m• 3Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
Curving CrackVS 4c **25766m• 3Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
Great - Bow CombinationHVS 5a ***530?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
The CornerHVS 5b ***222?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
LlithrigE1 5c ***316?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
ShrikeE2 5c ***295?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
AvalancheVD ***144162m• 6Y Lliwedd
Red Wall and Longland's ContinuationVD ***196137m• 7Y Lliwedd
Lockwood's ChimneyVD ***808?Clogwyn y Bustach
Grooved ArĂȘteHVD 4a ***3412230m• 8Tryfan
Direct RouteVD ***289885m• 5Tryfan
Hawk's Nest ArĂȘteVS 4c ***14140mGlyder Fach
Direct RouteVS 4c ***62888m• 7Glyder Fach
Cneifion AreteD ***2764140mCwm Cneifion
Tennis ShoeHS 4b ***2850137m• 5Idwal Slabs (aka...
Suicide Wall Route 1E2 5c ***261?Idwal Slabs (aka...
Amphitheatre ButtressVD ***1538?Craig Yr Ysfa
Pinnacle WallS 4a ***294?Craig Yr Ysfa
Mur y NiwlVS 4c ***383?Craig Yr Ysfa
The GrooveE1 5b ***199?Llech Ddu (Black...
Creagh Dhu WallHS 4b ***158265m• 2Craig y Castell...
Poor Man's PeutereyS 4a ***209475m• 5Craig Pant Ifan...
Scratch AreteHVS 5a ***1761?Craig Pant Ifan...
BarbarianE1 5b ***807?Craig Pant Ifan...
Silly AreteE3 5c ***424?Craig Pant Ifan...
Christmas Curry / Micah EliminateHS 4b ***282775m• 3Craig Bwlch y Moch...
One Step in the CloudsVS 4c ***409669m• 4Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Merlin DirectHVS 5a ***203250m• 2Craig Bwlch y Moch...
The FangHVS 5a ***1327?• 2Craig Bwlch y Moch...
The PlumE1 5b ***1531?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
The WeaverE2 5c ***558?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
VectorE2 5c ***1242?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
LavaredoVS 5a ***736?• 2Carreg Alltrem
BritomartisHVS 4c ***952?Gogarth North Stack...
A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***2387?• 4Gogarth North Stack...
The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***93?Gogarth North Stack...
HombreE1 5b ***186?Gogarth North Stack...
GogarthE1 5b ***1139112m• 5Gogarth North Stack...
The StrandE2 5b ***1087?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***499?Gogarth North Stack...
FlytrapE2 5b ***8782m• 4Gogarth North Stack...
AtlantisE1 5c **336?Gogarth South Stack
True MomentsE1 5b **84?Gogarth South Stack
FreebirdE1 5b **95?Gogarth South Stack
MousetrapE2 5a ***396128m• 3Gogarth South Stack
WendigoE2 5b ***146?Gogarth South Stack
King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***144137mHolyhead Mountain
Nige's AreteE1 5a 1113mRhoscolyn
FANTAN BHVS 5a ***58180m• 6Craig y Llam
Facinating WitchesHVS 5a ***25?Craig Doris
Cripple CreekE3 5b ***56?Craig Doris
The Path to RomeE3 5c ***71?Cilan Head
Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***18825mPen Trwyn
Table DirectVD ***700?Cadair Idris -...
 PEMBROKESHIRE
Iron FistE1 5b **2024mIron Age Fort
Flimston CrackVD ***32136mFlimston Bay
Blue SkyVS 4b ***108856m• 2Saddle Head
LandvetterVS 4b **13657m• 2Saddle Head
Diedre SudHS 4a ***66742mMowing Word
SealhuntE1 5b ***34836mMowing Word
Heart of Darkness/New MorningE1 5b ***34754m• 2Mowing Word
Chimes of FreedomE2 5b ***31942mMowing Word
Charenton CrackE2 5b ***14824mMowing Word
Pigs on the WingHVS 5a ***17930m• 2Triple Overhang...
Riders on the StormHVS 5a ***95330mStennis Head
ManzokuE1 5b ***142736mStennis Head
Pleasure DomeE3 5c ***44445mStennis Head
DaydreamsE2 5b ***18950m• 3Mewsford Point
Rock IdolE1 5a ***103145mMother Carey's...
The Strait GateE1 5b ***66245mMother Carey's...
Brazen ButtressE2 5b ***77436mMother Carey's...
Deep SpaceE2 5b ***28540m• 2Mother Carey's...
ArmoricanVS 4c ***157436mCaerfai Bay
The Soup DragonE2 5c ***650m• 2Saddle Bay
Preposterous TalesE2 5b ***24850m• 3Bosherston Head
Gravy TrainE3 5c ***2733mHollow Caves Bay
The WhalerE3 5b **2745m• 2Stackpole Head
PuritanE2 5c ***5536mStackpole Head
The Hole (Direct Start)E1 5c 6836mTrevallen Cliff
Strap-UpE3 5c **11742mHuntsman's Leap
First BloodE2 5c ***70136mSt. Govan's East
Captain Caveman6c+ S1 ***1125mLydstep Cavern Bay
Magic FluteE1 5b ***8724mPenally West
Giltar Slab RouteS 4a ***29545mPenally East
 SOUTH COAST
AviationE1 5b ***90936m• 2Haytor
Land's End Long ClimbVD ***104385m• 8Lands End
The Devil's SlideHS 4a ***1164117m• 5Lundy
Satan's SlipE1 5a ***495?• 3Lundy
SarcophagusVS 4b ***62531m• 3Chudleigh Rocks -...
Demo RouteHS 4b ***307819m• 2Sennen
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando RidgeVD ***2807161m• 8Bosigran Ridge Area
DoorpostHS 4b ***312367m• 3Bosigran
Suicide WallE1 5c ***98678m• 5Bosigran
Bow WallE2 5b ***56052m• 2Bosigran
The GhostE3 5b ***20068m• 3Bosigran
XanaduE2 5b ***7355m• 3Great Zawn
Pendulum ChimneyS 4b ***82159m• 5Chair Ladder
South Face DirectVS 4c ***105159m• 4Chair Ladder
Central GrooveHS 4b ***2867?• 2The Dewerstone
MoonrakerHVS 5a ***57776m• 3Berry Head - The...
Magical Mystery TourE1 5b ***697335mBerry Head - The...
Coronation Street (WW)E1 5b ***509?Cheddar Gorge South
Yellow EdgeE3 5c ***27672m• 3Avon Gorge (Sea...
Right AngleHS 4b ***83273m• 3Gurnard's Head
Astral StrollE1 5b ***28188m• 4Zawn Duel and Carn...
Midnight CowboyHVS 5b ***560?Baggy Point
MarsE2 5b ***13125m• 2Subluminal and...
Skeleton RidgeHVS 4c ***69160m• 6The Needles
 SCOTLAND
East Ridge (Summer)M ***118860m• 2Sgurr Dearg...
Clach Glas - Blabheinn Traverse (Summer)D ***492?Bla Bheinn
Pinnacle Ridge (Summer)D ***659?Sgurr nan Gillean
Arrow RouteVD ***83161m• 2Sron na Ciche
IntegrityVS 4c ***66876m• 2Sron na Ciche
Grand DiedreVS 4c ***49?Thearlaich-Dubh...
Dawn Grooves (Summer)HVS 4c ***5175m• 7Sgurr Mhic Choinnich
King CobraE1 5b ***35210m• 7Sgurr Mhic Choinnich
Ardverikie WallHS 4b ***1165185m• 6Binnein Shuas
The Mousetrap (Summer)VS 4c ***171?Broad Cairn - Creag...
South Ridge DirectVS 5a ***597?• 13Cir Mhor
Spartan SlabVS 4c ***860?Beinn Trilleachan...
HammerHVS 5b ***373?Beinn Trilleachan...
Agag's Groove (Summer)VD ***1657105m• 4Buachaille Etive Mor
January Jigsaw (Summer)S ***73075m• 4Buachaille Etive Mor
Grey PantherE1 5b ***42045mKilt Rock, Staffin
Landward FaceVS 4c ***10050m• 3Am Buachaille
Diamond Face RouteE1 5b ***104?Old Man of Stoer
East Face Route (Original Route)E1 5b ***669130m• 5(Old Man of) Hoy
SulaE2 5b ***154100m• 3Mingulay
Prophecy of DrowningE2 5c ***212115m• 4Pabbay
The NeedleE1 5b ***453260mShelterstone Crag
SteepleE2 5c ***242250mShelterstone Crag
The Long ClimbVS ***107420m• 11Ben Nevis
CenturionHVS 5a ***448?Ben Nevis
The BatE2 5b ***122?Ben Nevis
Titan's WallE3 5c ***71?Ben Nevis
Cioch NoseVD ***792200m• 7Sgurr a' Chaorachain
Unicorn (Summer)E1 5a ***160?Bidean nam Bian -...
Savage Slit (Summer)S ***75880m• 4Cairn Gorm - Cairn...
 WINTER ASCENTS
Aonach Eagach Ridge (Winter)II ***1345?Aonach Eagach -...
Tower RidgeIV 3 ***1580800mBen Nevis
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Winter)IV ***77?Cuillin Ridge...
Point Five GullyV 5 ***792?Ben Nevis
Central TrinityII 2 ***550?Clogwyn y Garnedd
South GullyIV 4 ***226140m• 4Devils Kitchen (Cwm...
The Devils Kitchen (Winter)IV 4 ***11630mDevils Kitchen (Cwm...
Central Icefall DirectVI 6 ***25?• 3Craig y Rhaeadr
The DirectIV **5130mKinder Downfall
 AID ASCENTS
Kyrie EleisonA1 ***9860mManifold Valley
Embankment 3E1 5b ***220926m• 2Millstone Edge
Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-hand Crack Only)E1 5c 29712mMillstone Edge
London WallE5 6a ***19422mMillstone Edge
218 e, 865 stars329,46612,298m• 559
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